Ignition Switches & Lock Cylinders

Most new vehicles have keyless, push-button start and auto stop/start systems. With keyless ignition there’s no fumbling for keys or risk of locking them in the car. Just leave the keyless start fob, which is also the keyless entry fob on most vehicles, in your pocket or purse and push the start button on the dash to start the engine. On start/stop systems, the engine shuts off to save fuel and reduce emissions when the vehicle is stopped in traffic or at a traffic light and restarts as soon as the driver releases the brake pedal. But for decades the driver had sole control of vehicle starting via an ignition switch and lock cylinder located on the side of the steering column. However, lock cylinders can jam or become difficult to turn, and if the key can be turned the engine may not start or it may suddenly shut off if the ignition switch is faulty. If you’re in need of a replacement ignition switch and/or lock cylinder, you’ll find them right here on our digital shelves.

Battery power is supplied to a conventional column-mounted ignition switch, which then routes that power according to the switch position selected by the driver. The switch can only be turned when the appropriate key is inserted into the switch. When the key is inserted and the switch is turned to START, current is sent to the starter, ignition and fuel injection circuits to start the engine. When the engine starts and the switch is in the ON position, power goes to the engine and electrical accessories. If operation of accessories like the radio or power windows are desired without running the engine, the switch can be turned to the ACC position. With the switch in the OFF or LOCK position, there is no power to the engine and accessories. In the LOCK position the key can be removed, the steering column shaft is locked in place and the steering wheel cannot be turned, and if equipped with an automatic transmission the shift interlock will prevent the gearshift from moving from the PARK position.

Steering column mounted ignition switch/locks were mandated by the government beginning in the 1970 model year to deter vehicle theft and increase highway safety. The preceding dash mounted switches made vehicles much easier to steal and stolen vehicles are often used for joyriding that results in accidents. Ironically, key-operated dashboard ignition switches, which first appeared in the late 1940s and early 50s, were also intended to increase safety as the earlier push-button starters made it easy to accidently start the engine with the transmission in gear. Steering column switch/locks also proved to be vulnerable as thieves could pull out the lock with a slide hammer and use a screwdriver to turn the switch. In response, vehicle manufacturers began equipping their vehicles with coded ignition keys in the 1980s. A coded key contains a computer chip that communicates with the vehicle’s computer, and the engine will only start if the code is recognized by the computer’s programming. With this key system, even if the lock cylinder is defeated and/or the switch is somehow able to be turned, the vehicle will not start.

Nevertheless, despite the advanced construction and security of modern ignition switch/lock cylinder assemblies, they can still deteriorate and fail. Keys and the wafer tumblers inside the lock cylinder can wear, making the key difficult or impossible to turn. If the key can be turned, defects in the ignition switch may not allow the vehicle to start or the engine may die unexpectedly. If the engine won’t crank when the switch is turned to start, and the battery, starter and starter solenoid test good, the ignition switch may be defective or there could be a problem in the wiring. If the engine cranks but doesn’t start and the fuel and ignition systems test good, there could be a defect in the anti-theft system and the computer may not be recognizing the ignition key. This condition may be accompanied by an anti-theft light illuminating on the instrument panel. When the vehicle is traversing a rough road or any driving condition that would cause vibration, worn contacts in the ignition switch can temporarily interrupt the electrical connection, resulting in momentary loss of lights or accessories, engine misfire, or complete engine shut-off.

While driver convenience is the main reason given for the move to push-button keyless ignitions, because they also have fewer moving parts than conventional ignition switch/lock assemblies, it also makes them more reliable and less expensive for auto makers to manufacture. In a similar manner to coded ignition keys, the keyless ignition fob communicates with the vehicle computer when in range of the receiver inside the vehicle. The computer verifies the signal and that the gearshift is in PARK, and when the brake pedal is depressed it allows the vehicle to be started. While operation may vary according to make and model, in general the vehicle accessories may be operated without starting the engine by pushing the START/STOP button once without depressing the brake pedal.

No matter what vehicle you’re working on or where the ignition switch is located, we have the replacement switches, lock cylinders, and related components needed to restore reliable operation. We offer components that are manufactured to original equipment specifications, so when repairs are completed you can count on the functionality your vehicle was designed to deliver. In addition to switches, lock cylinders, and switch/lock cylinder assemblies, we also offer parts that are often needed to achieve a complete repair including housings, keys, lock covers, connectors, solenoids, and switch pigtails and harnesses. Here you’ll also find bezels, switch nuts and other reproduction components for the dash mounted switches/locks on classic vehicles. These components are exact duplicates of the vehicle assembly line installed parts, correct in form and function and specially made to meet the needs of vehicle restorers or anyone who wants that original look for their vehicle.