Frequently Asked Questions

Front control arms (A-arms)

Why should I choose Hotchkis Sport Suspension Tubular A-Arms vs the Competition?

All Hotchkis Tubular A-Arms are manufacturerd in the USA using the latest CAD manufacturing processes. Through a combination of inovative, value adding features, Hotchkis gives you the highest quality A-Arms on the market. Check out the key design features below.

What are the advantages from running the Hotchkis upper a-ams vs. stock a-arms on my 1964-1972 A-body?

Stock or Dropped Spindles

#1102 - This Hotchkis Sport Suspension Tubular Upper A-Arm is designed for vehicles using stock spindles, or any form of stock replacement drop spindle. The Geometry corrected design improves caster and camber curves, improving handling and stability.

Increased caster will improve high speed stability and cause the vehicle to track straighter.

Improved camber curve will keep more of the tire in contact with the road under hard cornering.

Features:It features smooth operating Delrin® bushings, 4130 chromoly offset cross-shaft for increased camber adjustment and built in positive caster. Precision CNC bent tubing is 100% TIG welded, and finished in gloss black powder coat. MADE IN THE USA.

B or F Body Tall Spindle Conversion

#1103C - This Hotchkis Sport Suspension Tubular Upper A-Arm is designed for vehicles using F or B Body Spindles, or aftermarket "Tall" spindles. This very popular conversion improves the poor handling positive camber curve A-Body vehicles have when using stock spindles. Positive camber curve is when the tire lays outwards under cornering or suspension compression. This causes the tire to roll over, loosing tire contact patch and traction. Increasing the height of the spindle and using an appropriate A-Arm, the vehicle will have a negative camber curve, thus pulling the top of the wheel in, allowing more tire contact as the vehicle rolls into a corner.

Features: Smooth operating Delrin® bushings, 4130 chromoly offset cross-shaft for increased camber adjustment and built in positive caster. Precision CNC bent tubing is 100% TIG welded, and finished in gloss black powder coat. MADE IN THE USA.

When should I fully tighten my A-Arm?

Tighten the bolts with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground. The reason for this is by tightening the A-Arms when the vehicle is fully weighted, you reduce the pre-load on the bushings and allow the vehicle to sit at final ride height.

Will the Hotchkis part number 1103C work with my stock spindles on my 64-72 A-body?

No, they will not work with the stock spindle. The Hotchkis 1103C tubular upper a-arms require the use of late model taller spindles and brakes for improved suspension geometry and stopping power. In order to run the upper a-arms Part # 1103C, you do have to change the factory spindles to the B-body spindle (1978-1996 Impala, caprice, etc) or F-body spindle(1970-1981 Camaro, Firebird). For the stock spindle applications use item #1102.

Do the outer tie rods have to be changed with the 1103C or "Tall Spindle" Conversion?

When doing the "Tall Spindle" conversion using F or B Body spindles, you must use the appropriate outer tie rod ends for the spindle.

64-70 A-Body Cars will use outer tie rod ends from a 78-88 G-Body

71-72 A-Body Cars will use outer tie rod ends from a 73-77 A-Body

78-88 G-Body can reuse the stock outer tie rod ends

Will the B & F Body spindles lower vehicle?

Yes, 3/4" of an inch

Will the B & F Body spindle widen track width?

Yes, 3/8" of an inch per side.

What are the alignment specs when running the Hotchkis part number 1103C?

Caster 4+ Driver Side and 4.5+ Passenger Side, 0 Camber and 1/16 total toe in.

Chassis Brace

Where does the trailing arm mount brace go?

The trailing arm brace connects the upper trailing arm mount to the lower trailing arm mount, connecting the two points together reducing chassis flex.

Shocks

Why should I use the HPS 1000 shocks over the "off the shelf" Bilstein™?

Shocks need to be tuned with spring rates and vehicle weights in mind, that's why one valve fits all or universal shocks just don't optimize performance and often sacrifice ride comfort for performance. Tuned in house and manufactured by Bilstein™, this shock offers a seamless transition between comfort and control. Each shock is specifically engineered and tuned to offer the ultimate performance ride.

Do shocks come with your TVS kits?

No, they do not. You still have a choice of what shocks you prefer. Hotchkis strongly recommends the HPS 1000 shocks so you will be using matched product.

Springs

Which side goes towards the top when installing my springs 1901F/1916F

The flat side goes towards the top!

What direction should I install my springs?

You will want to install your springs with the part number right side up, unless special instructions are included with the item.

Do the springs settle?

The springs settle within the first 5 miles of driving the vehicle.

Will weight reduction to my vehicle affect ride height?

Yes. Any weight reduction from factory parts will affect ride height.

What coil springs/TVS kit should I buy if I have a big block with aluminum heads?

Buy the small block springs/ TVS kit.

I want to lower my car, but do not want to give up my ride quality; will Hotchkis springs ruin my ride characteristics?

Hotchkis engineers are familiar with the balance of optimizing handling while maintaining ride quality. Their springs will provide the handling and precise vehicle responsiveness and stability with little effect to the ride quality.

Is it necessary to have my vehicle aligned after installing a Hotchkis spring kit?

Yes. Any time you work on the suspension system and after the ride height, it is necessary to check and adjust the alignment of the vehicle. By lowering the ride height, some camber and toe may be affected.

Will I have proper tire clearance with a "Larger" wheel & tire package after installing a Hotchkis spring kit?

All Hotchkis suspension kits are designed and tested around the vehicle's original wheel and tire combination. It is best to work with a reputable wheel and tire dealer that is knowledgeable in the proper wheel size (width and offset) that is correct for your vehicle in order to prevent clearance problems caused by improper wheel and tire packages.

How do I measure ride height?

Using a tape measure, measure the height from the fender lip to the ground.

Sway Bars

I have a squeak coming from one of my sway bars? What can it be?

Urethane bushings often make noise when the temperature is cold or they are not adequately greased. Try greasing the sway bar bushings with any non-lithium based moly grease. A Special silicon grease for polyurethane can be purchased from Hotchkis. Item 3101.

What are the advantages of the extreme rear bar 2282R over the 2202R?

The 2282R Extreme Rear Sway Bar (shown below) offers a few advantages over the 2202R standard upgrade bar. The 2202R bar is designed just like the factory bar where it is bolted between two trailing arms. The problem with this design is that without the use of end links the bar causes binding and is sometimes prone to breakage. Knowing this, Hotchkis designed the Extreme Sway Bar. This design clamps to the axle tubes using the supplied brackets and stainless steel u-bolts, while it attaches to the trailing arms using dog bone links.

This design allows for better articulation from the suspension and less bind. A second advantage to this design is the adjustable bar. This allows the user to pick between two different bar rate and stiffness levels. The third advantage is the lightweight tubular design. This allows Hotchkis to create a strong, lightweight product that provides years of service.

Does Hotchkis make custom sway bars?

No, the company does not make custom sway bars.

What can I use to clean the excess grease off my sway bars and bushings?

With WD40, you can clean off excess grease from the bushings and sway bar.

Are solid sway bars stronger than hollow sway bars?

No. Sway bars work off of torsional force (twisting motion). Therefore, the material in the center of a solid bar plays little role in the resistance of torsional force. With this in mind, Hotchkis has eliminated some of the center material and also moved some to the outside of the tube, where it is most effective. In turn, they produce a sway bar that is lighter in weight and just as stiff, if not stiffer than solid. For example, a 1 3/8" hollow bar is equivalent to a 1'1/4" solid. But the 1'3/8" hollow bar is 6% stiffer and 43% lighter than the 1'1/4" solid.

Why do you sell sway bars only in pairs? (For the exception of some applications)

To get the optimum handling performance out of your car, it is imperative to use both the front and rear bars together. Hotchkis' "hands-on" road-testing behind their bars indicate that both the front and rear sway bars must be used to produce maximum handling results for your vehicle. Thus, using a single bar is not recommended when trying to achieve the best results.

Rear Suspension Trailing Arms

What makes Hotchkis Trailing Arms better than the competition?

Size Does Matter! Hotchkis Trailing Arms are built to take the abuse of high horsepower applications while still offering a comfortable ride.

There are many trailing arms and rear suspension solutions on the market, and to the untrained eye they all look similar. Here are some of the key features that make Hotchkis Trailing Arms the strongest in the market.

Hotchkis Trailing Arms (right) are formed from one section of 1.5 x 3" .120 wall tube. This gives Hotchkis Arms incredible strength and rigidity. The company's competitor (left) chooses to weld a tail section to their trailing arm, creating a weak point. Notice how the arm on the left is cracked and separating from the main body. Notice the size difference of the Hotchkis Arm (right). Both the bushing and the body of the arm are notably larger. The same is with the GM A-body Non Adjustable Upper Trailing Arm.

Larger bushings and super strong 1.5" x 3" .120 wall rectangular tubing make Hotchkis Trailing Arms unmatched in strength. Another often-overlooked feature is the method the bushing tube is attached to the arm. Other manufacturer chooses to weld a round tube to the end of a rectangular body. This weld can fracture under high loads. Hotchkis Trailing Arms feature a bushing that is set into the original parent material. Notice how the ends are wrapped around the bushing and TIG welded. The bushing would have to be ripped from the parent material in order to fail. Hotchkis arms are designed and built in the USA.

Hotchkis adjustable upper trailing arms feature massive 1-1/2" billet aluminum center sections for superior strength and durability. Tail sections are formed from 120" wall steel, TIG welded for strength, and mated to 7/8" studs for added strength and durability. The Swivel Max, greasable bushing allows for added articulation and quiet operation.

I have heard that polyurethane bushings bind. Is that true?

The A-body rear suspension uses a series of two different length trailing arms, the amount of articulation required during extreme cornering is quite minimal. The manufacturer's unique polyurethane bushings have more than adequate articulation resulting in bind-free suspension movement throughout the full range of travel. Hotchkis Sport Suspension has been using polyurethane bushings in the A-Body upper and lower trailing arms for over 15 years, and they are constantly looking for better ways to design products; but the truth of the matter is for street applications, the unique polyurethane bushings used in these arms offer a great level of performance while still maintaining a comfortable ride.

Should I wait until the vehicle is on the ground before tightening the bolts?

Yes. As a rule of thumb you should always tighten suspension bolts when the full weight of the vehicle is on the ground.

Will your trailing eliminate wheel hop?

The Hotchkis trailing arms will reduce wheel hop but may not eliminate wheel hop on every vehicle. There are many factors that affect wheel hop on cars. Tire Pressure, Tire Type, Shock Technology, Spring Rates, and Vehicle Height all affect wheel hop. Pinion angle is also a factor which would cause wheel hop and drive line vibration. Some high horse power cars could need additional traction devices, but as a good rule of thumb, it's best to start with upgrading your trailing arms with a Hotchkis Adjustable Rear Suspension Package.

Is there an optimum pinion angle?

Due to the nature of an automobile chassis, the various angles are constantly changing, which adds to the complexity of obtaining optimum pinion angle. Engines may not sit squarely in their motor mounts, motor mounts may not sit properly between the frame rails, cross members may not sit straight and where the rear end is positioned. Despite all these factors affecting the positioning of our drive trains, they seem to work well enough in most cases, at least on the street in stock applications. This functionality is possible due to the universal joint, which, by design, corrects for slight misalignment between the driving components (crankshaft and transmission) and the driven components (driveshaft and differential) of the drive train.

Where does the trailing arm mount brace go?

The trailing arm brace connects the upper trailing arm mount to the lower trailing arm mount, connecting the two points together reducing chassis flex.

Front Suspension

Why doesn't the company offer a new K-Member?

During the initial development of the B & E body platforms, Hotchkis looked into developing a K-Member as many of their competitors have done, but soon after that, the company's engineers determined ways they could offer bolt-on upgrades that effectively improve the front end geometry without a costly, difficult to install K-Member change.

What do your Geometry Corrected Tubular A-Arms do?

The a-arm pivot bracket Hotchkis provides is a part of their solution for reducing bump steer. The stock upper a-arm configuration has such a steep inner pivot angle. This causes the caster to change rapidly as the suspension travels up & down causing excessive spindle geometry-point movement. The company's new pivot location reduces this caster change and allows the upper, lower, and steering arms to translate more harmoniously throughout its travel. This change in combination with Hotchkis steering tie rods help minimize unwanted bump steer. In addition, the upper arms themselves have more negative camber and more positive caster built into them to maximize tire contact patch while cornering. The company's Challenger runs close to +6° of caster and -2.5° of camber.

How Do I correct bump steer?

Hotchkis Sport Suspension offers adjustable steering rods that allow correction for most bump steer conditions.

Front Sway Bar

Does the front sway bar installation require drilling or welding?

The front sway bar does require a bracket to be welded to the vehicle. This is required to allow for the strongest possible connection to the vehicle. Detailed instructions can be found at the following links. 66-69 B-Body Item # 2255, 70-74 E-Body # 2254

What if my lower control arms do not have end link brackets?

Hotchkis now manufacturers these brackets which can be welded on to stock lower control arms, allowing the installation of a sway bar. 66-70 B Body cars use part # 23366, 70-74 E Body cars and some 70-72 B-body cars will use # 23367.

Rear Suspension

What features make Hotchkis Sport Suspension leaf springs so special?

The Hotchkis leaf springs have many features built in that increase strength and improve performance. Torque management: 24366 & 24367 springs feature a half length top rebound spring and a stiffened front section to help torque management and help reduce axle wrap up and wheel hop. This design allows torque management without the added weight of a full leaf.

Bushing Eye: 24366 & 24367 springs feature Berlin eye's at both ends. The Berlin is the strongest of all bushing eyes and offers reduced eye stress by directing acceleration and braking forces into the eye.

Noise Dampening: The Hotchkis leafs offer galvanized center liners for reduced noise and friction as well as polyurethane isolators on the clips and UHMW tip inserts.

Rear Sway Bar

Does the rear sway bar installation require drilling or welding?

1966-1969 B- Body - The rear sway bar does require two 1/2" holes.
1970-1974 E- Body - The rear sway bar does require a bracket to be welded to the vehicle. This is required to allow for the strongest possible connection to the vehicle.

What is the rear thrust angle and how can I correct it?

Thrust angle is the angular difference between the Geometric Centerline and the Thrust Direction. The thrust angle is positive when it points to the right and negative when pointed to the left. The goal is to have zero thrust angle. The presence of a thrust angle can cause the vehicle to "dog leg" or track to the left or right during straight-line driving along with steering & tire wear issues. (See Image Below)

Why the thrust angle is so important?

When performing a 4-wheel alignment to your G-Machine, it is imperative that the "Thrust Angle" is adjusted correctly. Having excessive thrust angle in your alignment can cause adverse effects on handling performance. Straight-line stability and steering control can be reduced. Along with increase in "feathering," tire wear on all 4 tires. The Hotchkis Thrust Shim Kit will allow your alignment shop to properly adjust the thrust for your A, B, or E-Body Mopar!

How can I adjust for thrust angle on my Mopar?

Hotchkis Sport Suspension has developed a Thrust Shim Kit for use with their leaf spring kits or factory springs and hangers. The process is very simple and involves inserting the necessary shims between the leaf hanger and the body. (See Image Below)

09+ Challenger Technical Page

Which spring is right for my Challenger?

Hotchkis Sport Suspension has spent numerous hours developing a system for the 09 Challenger that has the perfect blend of High Performance, and a comfortable ride. Based on consumer demand we have developed spring options for the Challenger owner in regards to the desired amount of drop.

SRT owners can enjoy a comfortable ride, and a moderately lowered stance by using our spring kit #19107. This kit lowers the SRT 5/8" Front and 1" Rear for a subtle drop. The Challenger SRT below is equipped with a Hotchkis TVS consisting of 19107 Sport Coil Springs, and 22107 Sway Bars.

RT owners have a choice of drops and can enjoy a comfortable ride, and a moderately lowered stance by using our spring kit #19108. This kit lowers the RT 1 7/16" Front and 11/16" Rear for a subtle drop. The Challenger RT below is equipped with a Hotchkis TVS consisting of 19108 Sport Coil Springs, and 22107 Sway Bars.

For those RT owners looking for a more aggressive drop, the 19107 springs from the SRT can be used for a 2" drop all the way around. The Challenger RT below is equipped with the 19107 Sport Coil Springs and 22107 Sway Bars.

NIVOMAT Equipped Cars

Owners with cars that are equipped with the NIVOMAT self leveling shock absorbers are not able to lower the vehicle without a shock change. We have successfully installed the Bilstein shocks on these cars with great results.

Alignment

Many new Challenger owners have asked questions regarding alignment after lowering their vehicles as many alignment shops tell them the vehicle is "out of spec." Obviously vehicles that have been lowered will have alignments that vary from the original settings, but what is acceptable?

From our experience tuning suspension systems, vehicles will benefit by running negative camber in the front which allows more tire contact patch during cornering. Owners are sometimes concerned about tire wear when running negative camber. The truth to the matter is, camber (unless excessive -2.5" or greater) plays less a role in tire wear than does toe. Often the cause of uneven tire wear is blamed on camber when the true problem is toe. By properly aligning the vehicle after lowering and setting the toe settings to 1/16 front and 3/16" rear total toe in, tire wear can be minimized.

After installing our 19108 Sport Coils Springs (Front: 1-7/16" Rear: 11/16" Drop) on a 09 RT we were able to achieve the following alignment specs without the use of any aftermarket alignment products. Front Camber -0.8° Rear Camber -1°

These camber settings are perfectly acceptable for daily driving and will not adversely affect tire wear. Toe was set to front 1/16" total toe in and the rear 3/16" total toe in. These are the settings you should be using for Toe.

The SRT8 models experience slightly different alignment specs as well as RT models using the 19107 springs. We have seen -1.3° in front and -1.8° at these lower heights. While the front is still within acceptable range, the rear could benefit from some form of aftermarket alignment kits. Optimum rear camber settings would be -1 to -1.5°

The key to properly aligning these vehicles is:

1. Make sure the rear sub frame is aligned and installed correctly after changing the rear springs, a mis-aligned sub frame will create alignment issues.

2. Use an experienced alignment shop. Just because someone does alignments, doesn't necessarily mean they know what they are doing. Performance cars with aftermarket parts require special needs, and experience.

Bump Steer

Bump steer was a topic of conversation we found in many internet threads, so we measured a 09 R/T to determine the amount of Bump Steer, or toe change the vehicle experiences. These are the numbers we recorded for front bump steer:

The toe change during bump travel is very minimal, showing only a 1/16" of total toe change within 3 inches of bump travel. 1/16" of a inch is so minimal the driver wouldn't even be able to feel it. Compare that to a stock 70' Challenger with over 3/8" of an inch of change. From these numbers, it is not necessary to purchase or install any aftermarket bump steer kits on the 09 Challenger at these lowered heights.

What will upgrading my sway bars do?

Sway bars are the most significant upgrade many Challenger owners make to improve the vehicle's handling. Upgraded sway bars reduce body roll and improve cornering and handling performance without affecting ride quality. Hotchkis Sport Suspension develops sway bars through vehicle testing. While many companies produce sway bars that are merely larger than stock using engineering formulas, Hotchkis takes the vehicle to the track and use 600 FT Slalom data that helps them to determine the best handling balance for the particular vehicle. This testing allows the manufacturer to design the best sway bars on the market and ensure their customers the ultimate performance.

I have a SRT, how can your sway bars be any better?

There is always room for improvement. The factory vehicles are tuned to offer a level of performance that sells cars to the masses. Aftermarket products exist for those consumers that want to take their production vehicle to the next level of performance. Below is a chart of factory sway bar sizes and equivalent Hotchkis upgrades.

Does lowering the suspension on my Challenger put extra stress or strain on my suspension parts? I have heard I should buy a bump steer kit to alleviate stress.

At the lowered ride heights, the vehicles static ride has been changed from factory, but the arc of travel the suspension follows remains the same. Therefore, the steering components and ball joints will see the same range of motion as designed from the factory. The aftermarket bump-steer kits can allow the owner to change the relative location of the steering arm, in relation to the spindle, but the arc of travel the suspension follows will always remain constant. The rod ends that are typically used in steering upgrades offer a superior level of steering feel over factory tie rods and may offer better articulation and adjustment, but there can be a downside to that as well. Rod ends typically have a lower service life than factory tie rods, and often become noisy over time. Hotchkis uses rod end steering components on other platforms and warns that when used on daily driven vehicles, additional noise may be present.