On most cars the highway ride height will be 2-4" lower than stock. By deflating the system an additional 3-4" of drop will be realized. On trucks the drop is typically more because trucks normally start out much higher. Most trucks will drop 4-6" at ride height and 8-9" fully deflated.
How hard is it to install?
It varies widely by application, but a bolt-on muscle car system can usually be installed in 12-15 hours for the actual undercar suspension components and an additional 10 hours for the compressor kit. Leveling sensors will add another 5-6 hours to the installation time.
Which is better, CoolRide (airsprings) or ShockWaves?
The ShockWave is simply a combination of an air spring and a shock absorber. The advantages are easier mounting, more tire clearance, better working angle for the shock and the air spring, and the inclusion of a high quality billet adjustable racing shock. In a perfect world an air spring and separate billet adjustable shock could accomplish the same performance, but it will usually come with more installation effort.
How much air pressure should I run?
The technically correct answer is whatever air pressure it takes to achieve the proper air spring installed height. On the rear of a lightweight street rod this may mean 40 psi. On the front of a big block Chevelle it may mean 110 psi. This is because of the difference in loads being imposed on the air spring. You are much more interested in running the air spring at its intended ride height than whatever air pressure may be required to get it there.
My buddy had a friend who said his air ride system rode terrible…
This could have several causes. Some people get addicted to the sexy look of a car dragging the ground. Unfortunately at that lowered level you have no suspension travel. To get any kind of civilized ride quality you simply must have adequate suspension travel which means you will have to raise the car to ride height. The opposite of this is the customer who installs an air suspension as a band-aid to cure a tire clearance problem. They have to over inflate the suspension to avoid rubbing the tires. With either scenario you must cure the real problem before you can hope to achieve a decent ride quality. If these 2 issues are not present then you may simply have to do some fine tuning. Air pressure should be set so the air spring (or ShockWave) is at its designed ride height. When this is achieved you can fine tune the air pressure in small increments (3-5 psi) up or down. If in doubt about whether to inflate or deflate…add air. Most people try to run too little pressure because they like the way the car looks when lowered. If you are using ShockWaves you can also adjust your shock valving in 1 or 2 click increments. Just like with a performance engine…a little tuning can make a huge difference!
Do I have to use an on-board compressor?
Theoretically you could simply inflate the suspension with shop air and leave it at that. The problem with that is you sacrifice the largest benefit of an air suspension: adjustability. Without an on board compressor and control system there is no way to fine tune the system.
Where do I set the adjustment knobs on the shocks?
This is totally dependent of the vehicle and the drivers taste. With a single adjustable shock the knob affects the rebound valving only. Since air pressure is a reasonable indicator of vehicle weight we refer to it as a guideline for shock valving tuning. The more air pressure that is required to achieve ride height, the more the vehicle weighs, and the more rebound valving that is typically needed to achieve proper performance. In general start at 1 click from full soft for every 10-15 psi of air pressure. Fine tuning can be started at that point. On a double adjustable shock there are separate adjustments for rebound and compression valving. An air suspension usually likes more rebound resistance than compression resistance. Usually start with about 1 click of compression for every 35-40 psi of air pressure and 1 click of rebound for every 10-15 psi of air pressure. For example, if the rear of your car requires 60 psi to achieve ride height, start with the compression setting at 1 or 2 and the rebound at 4-5. If the front of your car requires 100 psi, you may start at 2-3 on compression and 8-9 on rebound.
What will this do to the front end alignment?
Front end alignment is set at highway ride height. Actually alignment is easier to maintain with an air suspension than with a conventional suspension because you are able to compensate for any varying loads that would cause a conventional suspension to sag and loose alignment. Your alignment setting will obviously change when you deflate the suspension to lower it for parking, etc. But will return when the vehicle is returned to its highway ride height.
How is the ride quality compared to coil springs or coilovers?
The ride quality of an air suspension is typically much better because the driver is able to quickly tune the load capacity of the air spring to the exact load of the vehicle and their driving style.
How long will my system last?
The most common problem is air leaks. This is nearly always caused by improper installation. The simple use of thread sealer on the fittings will prevent 90% of all leaks. Making sure the airline is cut off cleanly before installation into the fitting will prevent another 9% of leaks. The only other place that could possibly leak would be an air valve if it gets any assembly debris or teflon tape in the orifice.
What happens when a bag blows?
The only thing that will hurt an air spring is abrasion. If you let it rub on anything it will fail very quickly. Other situations to be aware of would be the proximity of the exhaust (leave at least 2 inches) and using grommets to run airline and wiring through.
What will an air suspension NOT do?
– Air suspension WILL NOT cure tire clearance problems. Air springs AND suspension have a particular ride height that has been designed into those systems. The farther you deviate from that ride height the more the performance is compromised. Many times a poor ride quality problem is caused by overinflating the air springs so the tires don’t rub. The solution is to cure the tire clearance problem so the air spring and the suspension can be operated at its intended ride height.
– You can’t drive the car on the ground. I know it looks cool, but you simply must have adequate suspension travel to get proper performance and a civilized ride quality. This is the biggest cause of poor ride quality complaints.
– Air suspension will not cure a car that has been built too low. Even if the air springs are run at their intended ride height you will compromise the vehicles performance by operating the suspension above its intended ride height. Most OEM suspensions induce a fair amount of positive camber when extended (lifted) which typically hinders handling performance even if you can achieve anything close to proper alignment settings. By contrast many OEM suspensions induce negative camber when lowered. Unless taken to extreme this can actually help handling performance.
I see compressor “kits” advertised for much less than yours… what’s the difference?
I see compressor “kits” advertised for much less than yours… what’s the difference? This one is easy… DOT approved airline, DOT approved fittings, bubble-tight, leak-free solenoids, weather pak wiring connectors, completely assembled control panels, installation fasteners and terminals included. NO ONE ELSE uses the quality of components or includes all the details like Air Ride Technologies… period!
What are the advantages and disadvantages of a “two way” vs. a “four way” compressor system?
When air suspension was first introduced to the hot rod market in the mid 90's the two way control system was the standard method of inflating and deflating the suspension. Very quickly it was learned that during cornering the outside, or loaded, air spring would attempt to transfer air to the inside, or unloaded air spring thereby magnifying body roll issues. This is where air suspension got its reputation for ill handling. Four way control system benefits:
It cures air transfer problems outlined above.
It gives you the ability to level the vehicle. Most cars will require different air pressures from side to side to compensate for extra weight, suspension bind, or to overcome alignment changes as the vehicle is raising or lowering.
It raises the vehicle faster because you have 4 orifices flowing air instead of 2.
At this point the only reason to use a 2 way system is if your vehicle has only 2 air springs.
What is the advantage of multiple compressors, multiple tanks, and larger airlines?
In a nutshell… SPEED. The faster you want your vehicle to go up and down, the more air pressure and air volume it will require. For those of you who focus on ride quality and handling as the main benefits of the air suspension, there is no reason to invest the extra money in extra compressors and tanks, or for larger airlines. If you criteria is fast movement… then step up.
If I want to speed up my compressor system, what should I do first?
Probably the biggest bang for your buck would be an extra tank, followed by extra compressors and then by larger airline. If you are using the standard Thomas 150 psi compressor, Ridetech® recommend one compressor for every 3 gallons of air reservoir capacity. The Viair 150 psi compressor will service approx. 5 gallons of capacity. If you exceed these recommendations, your compressor will work harder to refill the tank and the life expectancy will be shortened. Ridetech® use 1/4" DOT approved airline for RidePro applications. The BigRed systems come standard with 3/8" DOT airline. With airline… bigger IS better, but it can become more difficult to route and install properly.
Why do you use a 33% duty cycle compressor instead of some of the more popular “100% duty cycle” units?
These published duty cycles come with “fine print”. First of all, the 100% duty cycle units create much less air volume than the units that Ridetech® offers. This means that they HAVE to run much longer to achieve the same amount of volume and pressure as Ridetech® ones. In addition, most of these “100% duty cycle” units are NOT sealed for protection against the environment. The motors are vented to run cooler and to allow the 100% rating. This means you have to mount them in a moisture and dirt protected location instead of being able to mount them under your truck or car. In addition to all of this, Ridetech® has the pressure switches built to their specs to trigger the compressor to come on earlier so it can refill the tank quicker. In the real world, this means Ridetech® 150psi switch triggers the compressor to come on at 135 psi instead of 115-120psi. Ridetech® compressors will refill the tank quicker and run less. The company has found this combination to be very successful.
Does the LevelPro system maintain a vehicle’s ride height while going down the road?
Does the LevelPro system maintain a vehicle’s ride height while going down the road? The LevelPro system will automatically default to ride height #2 when the ignition is turned on. It will achieve this ride height in approx. 10 seconds and then disengage so no corrections are being made while the vehicle is at highway speeds.
Will my car automatically drop when the key is turned off?
For safety reasons, the only automatic function is the ride-height-on-start feature when the vehicle is first started.
If I add passengers or luggage to the rear of the vehicle will the LevelPro automatically re-level the vehicle?
Yes, when the vehicle is re-started or when the ride height #2 button is activated the system will bring the vehicle to its programmed ride height regardless of the load being carried. The LevelPro system does not allow normal driving dynamics to falsely influence changes in air pressure and ride height.
Can the ride-height-on-start feature be turned off and on?
Yes, directly from the control panel. The programming button will be illuminated when the ride-height-on-start feature is activated.
Will the LevelPro system work with my fast valves or will I have to slow them down to make it compatible?
The LevelPro system will accommodate large flow air valves at full speed. This is because it uses both air pressure AND ride height sensors to determine how far away from the selected ride height the vehicle is at any time.
Will the LevelPro system work with other brands of solenoids or valves?
Yes. The RidePro and BigRed solenoids offer plugin installation, but RideTech offer a color coded wiring diagram to allow installation with any 12V solenoid or air valve.
Why is a monotube shock better than a twin tube shock?
The monotube design incorporates a larger diameter piston. A larger piston is more effective at controlling the oscillations of your suspension. The monotube design also incorporates a less complex fluid flow path. This allows the shock to run at a lower oil temperature, again doing a better job at suspension control.
Does this mean that a twin tube shock is junk?
Absolutely not. There are some very good twin tube shocks on the market. In general, they do an adequate job a controlling your suspension in an environment that is anywhere less than extreme.
Why do you use bearings in your mounts instead of bushings? I’ve heard that bearings make a lot of noise…
Ridetech® has spent a considerable amount of time finding a precision bearing that will stay tight and smooth in order to avoid the noise and harshness normally associated with a bearing mount. Cheap offshore bearings have all the sins you have heard about. Quality precision bearings offer a long life of smooth quiet operation.
A poly bushing will squeak, deteriorate, and generally fail in a loaded application such as a Shockwave or a coilover, especially on a heavy car.
A precision bearing adapts nicely to wide range of misalignment that may be present on OEM shock mounts. They will eliminate any side loading issues and extend the life and the performance of the shock.
What is the advantage of your delrin swivel ball stud top mounts?
Over time Ridetech® has discovered that a simple stem bushing mount that is found on nearly all other shocks tends to induce a significant side load through the piston rod. This leads to seal wear, extra friction, and sometimes even breakage. These issues are magnified on a “loaded” shock, such as a coilover or a ShockWave, where the entire weight of the vehicle is supported through the stud mount. The company developed the delrin swivel ball mount to eliminate this side loading. It has proven to be quiet, durable, reliable, and has eliminated any sideload problems.
Why are Ridetech® shocks more expensive than some other brands?
Many shocks on the market today were designed over 40 years ago. Many are built offshore. Many shock manufacturers do not offer the level of customer service and tech support that is necessary to properly resolve your suspension issues. Ridetech® shocks are a proven performance monotube design. Ridetech® offer dedicated support in the areas of application selection, tuning and performance advice based on years of company personal driving and racing experience.
Why are Ridetech® shocks less expensive than some of the other brands?
Two reasons…volume and market knowledge. Because Ridetech® addresses several markets…muscle cars, streetrods, classic trucks, military applications, ATV’s, etc…many of which share at least some common components. This allows company to manufacture many of these components in volumes sufficient to realize a significant cost savings. In addition, they understand that MOST customers do not need every bell and whistle that an expensive single purpose racing shock might have to offer. Therefore Ridetech® offer several different levels of performance shocks, each incorporating the features and benefits that are most appropriate for the intended application…without the frills that you would never be using. If you need an expensive, extreme performance shock…Ridetech® got that. If you don’t…the company got that too.
How often should I rebuild my shocks?
If you have a street car, or even a car that sees casual track time, you should be well over 100,000 miles from any of our monotube shocks.
If you have a true race car, rebuilding your shocks should be part of your annual maintenance checklist.
Why are Ridetech® springs more expensive than some other brands?
The company use a high tensile cold wound, American made spring from Hyperco. The Hyperco spring has proven to offer a more stable spring rate with no degradation of height over time. It also uses a smaller diameter wire which allows more travel before coil bind. Hyperco continues to lead the industry in coil spring research and technology…the perfect partner for RideTech!
All of my friend’s street rods have a 3" stroke shock with a 300lb spring on the back of their street rods. Ridetech® recommend a 4" or a 5" stroke shock with a 175-200lb spring. How can company get away with such a radical recommendation?
Longer shock and lighter spring = better ride quality. Ridetech® accomplish this by first offering a billet lower shock mount that will drop the bottom of the shock 1" compared to most other lower shock mounts. Also, because the Ridetech® shocks have a longer threaded portion of the body, they are capable of using a longer coil spring than some other brands of shocks. A longer spring allows company to use a softer spring without fear of bottoming out. The last part of the equation is the better fluid control of the monotube design shock. This complete package offers a vastly improved ride quality…one that is controlled and compliant, not harsh and choppy.