No! Even if you cut your own grooves they are not street legal.
There is no guideline. However, some racing classes have rules limiting tire size. You will have to use a tire size that can best utilize the space that is available without interfering with the sheet metal, suspension components, etc.
The approved rim range for race tires is the tread width plus or minus 1.
Note: The sidewall measurement will change with rim width. The rule of thumb is 4/10ths of an inch, over all, for each 1 inch change in rim width.
Over all diameter will affect the amount of growth that you will have. There are many variables that contribute to tire growth as well. Unless otherwise noted, Mickey Thompson drag slicks are considered a low growth tire. Mickey Thompson slicks will grow approximately 1 to 1-1/2 @ 150mph
Measure diameter and section width to ensure proper clearance with sheet metal, suspension components, etc. Remember to leave room for tire growth, at least twice the growth factor. A good rule of thumb for side clearance is to leave yourself at least 1/2 to 1 inch from side to side.
Like all racing tire manufacturers, Mickey Thompson offers different compounds. In most cases, we do not offer choices, compounds are specific to size and application.
The advantage of a stiff sidewall is less tire wrap or sidewall distortion, thus reacting better at launch.
Note: This is good for heavy cars, or cars with a suspension, that can absorb the initial launch. If you are running a fixed suspension car like a dragster or an altered, you would need the tire to absorb the launch, thus a softer sidewall.
There are two ways to stiffen the sidewall:
1. Run tubes to help support the sidewall.
2. Matching the tread width with the wheel width, or going 1 wider on the wheel width, will stiffen the sidewall.
You should run tubes in any tube type tire, some M/T race tires are tubeless. Tube type tires will leak air through the sidewalls. As pressure drops, heat increases and the chance of tire damage or failure is increased. Tubes will also aid in absorbing some of this heat.
Most racing wheels come with the proper hole size. If your wheel won’t accept the valve stem, you must drill the wheel to 5/8. Be sure to debur the hole and clean the wheel before mounting the tire and tube.
All Mickey Thompson racing tubes have a center valve stem. Some wide wheels have a valve stem hole that is nowhere near the center of the wheel. This can make it difficult to mount your tube, if your tube is new here are some things you can try: First inflate the tube with a small amount of air to make sure the valve stem is pointing up. Secondly: Over inflate the tube (within reason) to stretch it out some. This will enable the tube to stretch and should allow the tube to fill all voids of the tire. If you should still have problems after attempting these two steps, than Mickey Thompson suggests the following: Drill another hole in the racing rim 5/8 in diameter near the center of the rim. Mickey Thompson strongly suggests you consult the rim manufacturer before doing this. Remember to clean the rim and debur the hole, we also suggest that you place duct tape over the original hole inside the rim, should you choose to do this.
Two possible causes of this are wrong tube size, or faulty tube installation.
Yes. We suggest static or Bubble balancing. Dynamic or Spin balancing, a bias ply slick will work best only if the slick does not deform. In racing the tire goes through many changes in shape. Launching, the tire wrinkles and squats. As the car goes towards the top end, the tire begins to egg shape. A static balance assures the tire is balanced around the circumference as it deforms.
Mickey Thompson bias ply drag slicks are non directional. New tires that require running directional will have rotation arrows to signify this. Radial tires are directional.
Check air pressure every pass. Do not overheat in burnout. Rotate as needed. Replace tires if weather checking appears.
This will vary from car to car. Inconsistent 60? and 330? times caused by tread wear or carcass break down will be your signals to change the tires. Your tires have wear indicators in the tread to give you an idea of how much rubber is left on the tire. Cars that launch hard can cause the carcass material to break down. You should inspect your tires every 30 passes. More frequently in high horsepower cars.
The body plies are perpendicular to the bead on radial tires. On bias and bias belted tires, they are at an angle (bias) to the bead, which greatly increases sidewall strength and durability. The belt on a bias belted or radial tires improves tread stability and helps reduce rolling resistance which is the radial tires main feature. M/T’s construction sandwiches the belts between the body plies, which improves ride and virtually eliminates belt and ply separations. Sandwiched belt construction is unique to M/T tires only.
Radial tires offer two primary benefits:
Wide tires offer a unique look which many people desire. Beyond looks, wide tires are used where flotation and stability is desired. Narrow tires are used where traction, primarily in muddy conditions, is desired.
The industry standard is approx. 2% of the tire weight. Our standard is approx. 1% of the tire weight. Tires with excessive balance weight can be replaced under our adjustment policy within the first 10% of tread wear.
Use proper rim size. Maintain proper air pressure. Rotate the tires every 3000-5000 miles (if possible). Maintain proper alignment and replace worn front suspension components.