An aluminum radiator does cool better than a copper brass radiator. For example, an aluminum radiator with 2 rows of 1" tubes is equivalent to a copper brass radiator with 5 rows of 1/2" tubes. Aluminum provides high efficiency, is lightweight, and has a longer life compared to copper brass.
Griffin is a true manufacturer. Almost anyone can buy components and assemble a radiator, and truth is that a lot of so-called manufacturers do just that. Griffin is an integrated manufacturer. By controlling every step of the manufacturing process, we produce a radiator with components that are performance matched for optimum cooling capability. A Griffin is more than some off-the-shelf; one-size-fits-all, cookie cutter product. It is a performance radiator made to meet your specific application.
A decrease in degrees not only depends on the radiator, but also the other facets of your cooling system, such as fuel, moisture, pulley ratios, timing, etc. Griffin products are designed for a high performance level and are very competitive within the industry.
Modifications should be minor but do depend on the specific customer application.
You must use enough screws to support the weight. Make sure the screws do not puncture a tube.
Yes, as long as the ambient air temperature, around the radiator, is below the running temperature of the radiator fluid. Of course sitting at a stop light with the hood closed the ambiant temperature inside the engine compartment would be higher than the air outside the engine compartment due to the heat generated from other components such as the engine, exhaust, A/C, ect. Without adequate air flow, a radiator is just a reservoir for hot water. Coolant transfers heat to the tubes; the tubes transfer heat to the fins; air moving through the fins dissipates the heat from the radiator. You need sufficient openings to the radiator that channel adequate air to the entire surface of the radiator. You must have a radiator design that allows the air to pass effectively through the radiator (wider and taller is better than thicker). You must consider how the heat will be evacuated from the engine compartment.
The larger the size of the tube the more the cooling capacity. With a larger tube the volume of fluid is increased, displacing more heat thus increasing cooling capacity.
There should be enough space between your radiator and all other surrounding components as to have no contact with your radiator. Any contact with any adjacent engine component may cause rubbing against the radiator, due to vibration, and could damage the radiator or create a hole for fluid to leak thru.
As the coolant expands, it is pushed out of the overflow pipe on the filler neck into the Overflow tank automatically. As the Overflow Tank fills, it may reach the top overflow tube. Once that happens, coolant will be pushed completely out of the system. As the system cools, the radiator cap acts as a “two way” valve and will pull coolant from the Overflow Tank back into the radiator as needed.
Without a shroud the only part of the radiator that would work at idle (speed under 15 mph) would be the area where the fan was located behind the core. The shroud guarantees that air is pulled through the complete core, resulting in optimum performance.
Most original shrouds will fit a Griffin radiator.
Griffin recommends a puller fan. The puller fan shrouds will generally have lower airside restriction during highway operation.
You can use a fan shroud on the grill side, but it will not be as efficient since it blocks some air flow. The fan must be designed as a "pusher" instead of a "puller".
Sometimes a curved fan is better than a straight fan, but not always. Given the diameter of the motor hub, the outer diameter of the fans used on the typical race radiators curve for optimal design is minimal. Some straight blade fans will out perform curved designs.
An electric fan generally provides better air flow at idle. At higher speeds the improvement is minimal.
Griffin welds on brackets and uses bolts
Griffin's recommendation is to use an electric thermostat that senses bottom tank temperatures. The fan should be controlled to come on when either the A/C comes on or the coolant temperature exceeds a certain set point.
Yes, Griffin does have thermostatic switches for all the fans we sell.
The CFM rating and amp draw depends on the fan. Typical CFM's for a 16-inch curved blade fan are 2070 and 2360 for a straight blade. Amp draw is 17.5 and 21.5.
Griffin does not recommend using this type of mounting. The mounting straps could wear a hole in the radiator tubes.
Griffin does not recommend the use of a flex fan. If the flex fan is too close to the radiator the blades could flex forward causing damage to the core. If you are using a lower gear ratio fan, it can flatten out too fast at a lower speed and won't pull in as much air.