The choice between steel and aluminum performance flywheels is mainly a function of the vehicle’s planned uses and driver preferences. Either type of flywheel is a viable choice and improvement over cast OE units depending on what you are looking for in performance, what type of vehicle you have and how you will be using it…
Steel flywheels are designed to be stronger than OE ones and will deliver approximately the same weight (or in some cases more) than OE cast iron or nodular flywheels. This means they will deliver about the same inertia at rpm and driving characteristics as the OE unit, but will be less likely to break or explode under high rpm, high load conditions as seen in drag racing, etc. Steel flywheels are often SFI approved for race use. Steel flywheels are also a good choice for helping move heavy vehicles at lower rpms, such as in heavier trucks and for rock crawling, hill climb, etc. These flywheels are designed for use where extreme strength is the issue and not increased performance. Other considerations with steel flywheels are that they still require resurfacing when changing clutches and therefore have a limited service life, and that they do nothing to improve heat dissipation from performance clutches and therefore can not significantly improve clutch performance or longevity.
Billet aluminum flywheels are also designed to be much stronger than OE cast iron flywheels, but their lower weight will provide significant performance benefits by delivering faster throttle response, quicker acceleration, smoother shifting, easier vehicle braking and by freeing up additional horsepower to the wheels. Billet aluminum flywheels can also deliver OE equivalent inertia, but at increased rpms, and will require a slightly modified driving style. Billet aluminum flywheel equipped vehicles will provide a more responsive and “nimble” driving experience over vehicles equipped with heavy iron or steel flywheels. All Fidanza Performance aluminum flywheels are made from high quality 6061 T6 billet aluminum to deliver the optimum in strength and durability and are often SFI approved for race use just like steel flywheels. Our billet aluminum flywheels are a great choice for street performance vehicles, as well as, ones used in road racing, autocross, time attack, drift and drag racing; anyplace where increased horsepower and throttle response is desired. In addition, aluminum flywheels are much better at dissipating heat your clutch and can greatly improve clutch performance and life; and all Fidanza Performance aluminum flywheels feature a replaceable hardened steel clutch friction surface, which means they are infinitely re-buildable and will deliver years and years of exciting drivability.
Yes! All Fidanza Performance aluminum flywheels are CNC machined and assembled here in the US and balanced to within less than .5 gram; and they are incredibly accurate and consistent. We do, however, ALWAYS recommend that you balance your new flywheel along with your new clutch pressure plate as a complete assembly in order to maximize performance and minimize any driveline vibration or noise. Balancing should be done by a reputable and competent machine shop.
For both the clutch and flywheel mounting bolts you should follow the original manufacturers torque specs for your vehicle unless otherwise noted in our instructions. OE torque specs can usually be found in vehicle factory service manuals or by contacting your local dealer service department. Always use a correctly calibrated torque wrench for all tightening. NOTE: We do also recommend using a small amount of semi-permanent Loctite (Loctite Green) on the pressure plate mounting bolts when installing your clutch. All bolts should be replaced with new ones when servicing any clutch or flywheel. Bolts can be purchased from your local dealer or from a company such as ARP Fasteners.
You can use any brand or type of clutch you want (we happen to make some great ones!), as long as the clutch you choose is designed to bolt to the factory flywheel and uses the factory step height it will fit on our flywheel. Also, with our replaceable hardened steel friction surface, you may use any type of disc material you prefer, including, but not limited to; organic, Kevlar, ceramic, metallic and even sintered iron. Many of our flywheels are also drilled with multiple clutch patterns to accommodate various OE clutch sizes; these are listed in our application guide in the footnotes section.
Yes and no; a flywheel can exhibit some “chattering,” but it is only possible if the friction surface has extreme heat damage due to excessive slipping of the clutch. In actuality, the type of clutch disc material used causes most clutch chatter. The more aggressive, abrasive and “grabby” the material the more chatter you will tend to have (e.g. ceramic or metallic, puck style discs).
Many flywheels actually have asymmetric (not equally distanced) crank bolt patterns and have at least one crank bolt hole that is offset. Therefore, it is important to turn or rotate the flywheel by hand on the crank hub until you get it positioned so that all the bolts will line up correctly. Please adequately support the flywheel’s weight during this operation so that it does not fall and cause damage or injury.
Yes, this is by design, as your new flywheel is a performance item and designed to much tighter tolerances than the factory unit. In the case of aluminum flywheels, aluminum has a higher thermal expansion rate than iron or steel, so the tolerances must be kept even tighter to account for clearances under normal operating temperatures. If you are having difficulty installing a Fidanza aluminum flywheel over your factory crank hub, we suggest slightly heating the hub area of the flywheel (on a hot plate, in an oven, with a torch) to expand the center diameter and allow correct bolt up. Not much heat is needed, 10-20 degrees goes a long way. NOTE: Please use adequate hand protection when handling any heated parts.
We design our flywheels using the factory step height. The only exception would be custom units or those intended for specialty clutches.
Yes, in a manner of speaking… One of the best features of your new Fidanza flywheel is the replaceable friction surface plate, which does away with the need to “re-surface” it. Please replace the friction plate and hardware (available in a kit from any Fidanza dealer) whenever replacing a clutch; the cost is usually less than resurfacing a factory or steel flywheel and you are then assured to retain all factory dimensions. NOTE: If you are servicing a recently installed flywheel and clutch for minor “glazing,” etc., the friction surface may be “dressed” and re-used as long as there is no damage or significant wear.
Most custom units can be done for $1500 to $2200. This includes design, machining and assembly. Custom units may only be addressed in off-season.
We cannot tell you this. It is based on your engine and the modifications you make. Your driving style also must be taken into consideration. We recommend booking time on a chassis dyno and using it as your guideline for setting your new gears to optimize performance. Always be sure to re-torque.
The weight of the Fidanza clutch assembly will usually be the same as a stock O.E.M. clutch assembly.
Yes! All Fidanza clutch assemblies are computer balanced to help reduce vibration and noise and to ensure smooth operation. We do, however, ALWAYS recommend that you balance your new clutch along with your new flywheel as a complete assembly in order to maximize performance and minimize any driveline vibration or noise. Balancing should be done by a reputable and competent machine shop.
Yes. For our organic V-1 street discs we recommend breaking in the clutch for 200-300 miles with mild engagement such as stop and go city driving prior to any racing or spirited driving. Fidanza V-2 race discs usually only require a few hard slips to lap in the surfaces prior to normal driving or racing. Do not overheat the clutch during the break in period.
Yes. Fidanza pressure plates are specifically designed to handle higher than OE torque applications. With Fidanza’s design you can expect to have an increase in pedal effort between 15-20% over stock depending on application. We could design our clutches with more or less pedal effort but longevity, torque capacity, or engagement quality would suffer. My ACT clutch looks different than the previous clutch. Do I have the right parts?There are many manufacturers and designs for clutches. We do our best to use the best parts for your application. Check the part numbers and compare what is listed on our application chart for your vehicle. If the components fit properly without modification, chances are you have the right parts. If it appears something needs to be modified to make it work, stop and contact our tech department.
All Fidanza clutches are designed with performance and longevity in mind; however, clutch life will greatly depend on the driver and the vehicle; your style of driving and output of the engine also directly affect your clutch wear. For example a vehicle driven in heavy stop and go traffic will have a shorter clutch life than the same vehicle that is driver on the open highway. The same can be said of the clutch in a vehicle that is driven aggressively for racing versus one that is just driven daily to work.
It is always important to matchthe correct Fidanza V-Series clutch system with the vehicle and its intended use! Knowing what characteristics you want in a clutch and the torque and horsepower output of the engine is important too. Torque ratings for all Fidanza performance clutches are listed in our application guide/catalog. Fidanza Performance’s V-Series clutches provide great grip and performance at an affordable price and are available in two versions. The V-1 features a sprung hub, organic disc with copper inlay for street and mild race use, while the V-2 features a sprung hub, 6-puck ceramic disc for more grip on higher torque and race applications. Designed for drivability, durability and performance,V-Series clutches provide the optimum balance for today’s performance cars.
Yes! The alignment dowel pins properly locate the pressure plate to the flywheel. Without these pins severe vibration and engine damage can result. The alignment dowel pins should always be replaced if they are damaged, broken off, or missing from the flywheel.
When using stock clutch bolts, refer to the manufacturer's service manual for proper torque specifications. New bolts are highly recommended. ACT suggests using SAE Grade 8 or Metric Grade 10.9 fasteners and increasing the torque specifications (5/16 or 8mm bolts can be tightened to at least 30 ft. lbs. of torque). Lock washers or thread locking compound is also recommended. Proper torque is crucial to your safety, take the time to get the correct pressure plate assembly and flywheel bolt torque specifications and tighten the bolts correctly using a high quality torque wrench. Also be sure to tighten bolts using a diametrical pattern as indicated in your vehicle's repair manual. Never use air tools for installing or removing clutch bolts!
A smooth, flat flywheel surface is essential for proper clutch operation. Flywheels are subject to heat, scoring and warping during use. It is ALWAYS recommended that the flywheel be replaced or resurfaced whenever changing clutches. If upon careful inspection there are any signs of scoring, heat damage or warpage the flywheel MUST be replaced or at least resurfaced to assure good clutch performance. Any resurfacing should be done on a flywheel-grinding machine only. Refer to your factory service manual for resurfacing specifications (Flat, Step, Etc.). WARNING: IF YOUR FLYWHEEL SHOWS ANY SIGNS OF CRACKING, REPLACE IT! Never roughen the flywheel clutch surface with sanding as this reduces clutch life. The surfaces are designed to rub against each other (Producing Friction), not tear into each other (causing abrasion).
Improper clutch release caused by faulty linkage and/or improper adjustment.
Improper clutch adjustment or lack of free-play.
Inadequate clutch release can be caused by many problems. Possible causes are as follows: Clutch linkage not properly adjusted or reset. Flywheel not replaced or resurfaced before new clutch installed. Flywheel re-surfaced improperly (I.E. Incorrect flywheel step). Flywheel machined too thin or not manufactured to stock (O.E.M.) specifications. Lack of lubrication on linkage or release bearing collar. Linkage worn or damaged. Hydraulics defective, leaking or have air in the system. Cable stretched or damaged. Pilot bushing binding due to improper bell-housing alignment, bell-housing damaged, or loose. Clutch disc installed improperly. Clutch disc hub rubbing against flywheel bolts. Clutch disc binding on input shaft, damaged splines. Input shaft bent causing clutch disc run-out. Pressure plate assembly and/or clutch disc bent or damaged. Clutch disc is too thick or has excessive Marcel (Too much cushion between the friction facings). Pressure plate has defective or damaged torque drive straps. Damaged, worn, or improperly installed pilot bushing/bearing. Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings. Damaged or worn throw-out bearing collar.
Chatter is when the car shudders as the clutch is being engaged. Possible cause may be as follows: Flywheel has excessive run-out. Flywheel was not replaced/resurfaced or improperly resurfaced before the new clutch was installed. Damaged or excessively worn CV joints. Bad U-Joints in drive shaft or U-Joints misaligned. Excessive backlash in differential. Excessive driveline angle. Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts. The use of an aggressive clutch disc designed for racing. Defective pressure plate and/or disc. Disc has inadequate Marcel (Not enough cushion between the friction facing.). Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings. Worn or damaged clutch linkage. Bent pressure plate assembly and/or disc. Improperly tuned engine. Worn or damaged engine mounts or transmission mounts.