Because Driven Racing Oil is designed to be shear stable, it does not lose viscosity even after 500 miles of racing. As a result, you can run five 100 lap races without changing the oil. After each 100 lap race (or after four 25 lap races), change the oil filter and replace any lost oil. Make sure to properly warm up the engine before changing the filter to ensure no sediment builds up in the engine. This system keeps your engine clean and saves you money. Compared to buying a conventional oil and changing it every 100 laps, using Driven Racing Oil can save you approx. $25 every 500 laps.
Yes, Driven Racing Oil recommend using the Driven BR Break-In oil to flush the old oil out of your oil system before going to one of the Driven Racing Oils. This cleans out the system and eliminates the risk of additive clash.
Driven Racing Oil is compatible with both Alcohol Fuels (Methanol) and Nitrous Oxide. Driven Racing Oil recommend the use of XP4 with Nitrous Oxide systems. Driven Racing Oil currently do not offer oils designed for Nitromethane fueled engines.
Joe Gibbs Racing uses the BR for the first 2 hours on a new or rebuilt engine to break-in the cams and seat the rings. After 2 hours on the dyno, JGR switches to the correct viscosity synthetic oil for that engine build.
No. Driven Racing Oils are properly balanced to protect your racing engine and reduce friction. Adding an aftermarket additive can not enhance the performance of the oil. In fact, adding an aftermarket additive could change the balance of the oil, which could lead to engine failure. This is known as additive clash, and should be avoided.
The composition of the oils is proprietary and exclusive to Driven, but they do not contain any chlorinated additives. Driven Racing Oil Brake Cleaner is also non-chlorinated.
Keeping lubricants and fuel clean and contaminant free is very important. Proper storage and handling techniques can prevent contamination related engine and equipment failures.