Honda applications must use Honda fluid (O.E. or aftermarket is available). The Honda steering components are designed for the thinner viscosity of Honda fluid. Using regular power steering fluid will over-work the system and cause premature failure. Similarly, many other O.E.'s like Volkswagen, Chrysler and Mercedes-Benz specify what type of fluid must be used, so please read your owners manual.
Yes. GM now recommends that power steering fluid should be changed at 50,000 miles and continue at that interval. Just like engine oil, power steering fluid will eventually break down and carry suspended contaminants from component wear and breakdown.
Your original pump's input shaft enlarged causing the pulley hole to increase during removal. The pulley must be replaced.
Improper pulley installation or if the unit was dropped on the input shaft could cause the high pressure plate to move out of position. Remove pump and can and tap on the back of the pump with a hammer (carefully). This will re-seat the plate and the unit will now function.
Most likely cause is contamination. Remove the pressure hose and pressure fitting on the power steering pump. Remove flow control valve and spring. Clean the valve with fine emery paper and check the valve bore nicks. Reinstall the spring, valve, fitting and hose. Flush and bleed system and retest. If okay, install power steering filter to prevent problem from reoccurring.
Due to parts proliferation, you need to reuse your original fitting with the replacement unit. Make sure when changing that the "O" ring seal does not block holes on fitting. If it does, you will not have pressure.
The problem is not in the pump it is in the steering gear. The pump would cause a steering problem in both directions.
Air is in the system. Remove reservoir lid and inspect fluid level and condition. If fluid has foam or air bubbles present, you must bleed the system again.
This symptom is classified as "morning sickness". This condition is caused by Teflon sealing rings on the spool valve wearing grooves in the aluminum housing of the rack and pinion resulting in an internal bypass of pressure. Once the housing warms up, the metal will expand and reduce the pressure loss. The rack and pinion must be replaced. Cardone Industries rack and pinions have steel sleeves installed that prevent morning sickness and are backed by a lifetime guarantee.
The rack and pinion does not return to center by itself. Geometrically the front end will center the vehicle. If the vehicle will not return, first check the front end alignment then check for a restricted return line in the power steering system. If the return line is restricted/kinked, fluid pressure will build up and not return back to the pump.
If the return line is restricted/kinked, pressure will build up in the rack and leak at an area of the least amount of resistance which is usually the upper spool valve seal which is not a pressure seal.
The steering system is most likely contaminated with particles from the original rack. Failure to flush the system properly will cause these particles to become lodged in the spool valve and cause the rack to bind. You can back flush the system to dislodge these particles. Using shop air pressure, blow air through the return line and place the pressure line in a container to catch the fluid, cycle the wheel left to right to clean both sides. Reinstall the lines and flush according to the instructions in the box.
The most likely cause of power steering whine is air in the system. Follow the bleeding process in the instruction sheet. If the air returns after proper bleeding, it may be necessary to replace the pressure hose. A deteriorated pressure hose can cause air to enter the system. Also, make sure hoses do not touch frame or engine oil pan. As a general rule, replace hoses with every rack and pinion replacement.
No. The rack and pinion was already adjusted at the factory. No adjustment is necessary. Try isolating the rack to find out where the play is. If you hold the inner tie rod and have someone turn the wheel, is the play gone? If yes, problem is in the front-end; if not, remove the steering knuckle and lightly install vise grips on the sector shaft and check for play. If no play exists, check steering column or steering knuckle.
Simply turn the wheel in one direction until it stops. Next turn it the opposite way and count the turns until it stops. 2-1/2 - 2-3/4 turns lock to lock is normally a Performance rack; 3 - 3-1/2 turns lock to lock is a Standard rack. The only major difference is a Corvette which is 2 turns for Performance and 2-1/2 turns for Standard.
When the front end was aligned, the technician did not loosen the boot clamp when setting the toe. Failure to loosen the clamp twisted the boot which cracked during turns. Once the boot is torn, road debris and water was allowed to ruin the rack end seal.
First check for proper alignment. Also check for proper tire inflation, worn or binding outer tie rods or a brake system failure.