F.A.Q.

  • Steering
  • Brakes
  • Electronics
  • Pumps
  • Window Motor
  • Driveline

    • Power steering pump

      I drive a Honda, do I really need to use the Honda-specified power steering fluid?

      Honda applications must use Honda fluid (O.E. or aftermarket is available). The Honda steering components are designed for the thinner viscosity of Honda fluid. Using regular power steering fluid will over-work the system and cause premature failure. Similarly, many other O.E.s like Volkswagen, Chrysler and Mercedes-Benz specify what type of fluid must be used, so please read your owners manual.

      Should I ever change my fluid, even though nothing is wrong?

      Yes. GM now recommends that power steering fluid should be changed at 50,000 miles and continue at that interval. Just like engine oil, power steering fluid will eventually break down and carry suspended contaminants from component wear and breakdown.

      I bought a replacement power steering pump and my original pulley is too loose. What should I do?

      Your original pumps input shaft enlarged causing the pulley hole to increase during removal. The pulley must be replaced.

      Why is there no pressure after I installed a new pump?

      Improper pulley installation or if the unit was dropped on the input shaft could cause the high pressure plate to move out of position. Remove pump and can and tap on the back of the pump with a hammer (carefully). This will re-seat the plate and the unit will now function.

      Why did I lose power assist after a couple of days?

      Most likely cause is contamination. Remove the pressure hose and pressure fitting on the power steering pump. Remove flow control valve and spring. Clean the valve with fine emery paper and check the valve bore nicks. Reinstall the spring, valve, fitting and hose. Flush and bleed system and retest. If okay, install power steering filter to prevent problem from reoccurring.

      The fitting on my original unit is the opposite of the replacement. Why?

      Due to parts proliferation, you need to reuse your original fitting with the replacement unit. Make sure when changing that the "O" ring seal does not block holes on fitting. If it does, you will not have pressure.

      Why do I still have hard steering in one direction after I replaced the pump?

      The problem is not in the pump it is in the steering gear. The pump would cause a steering problem in both directions.

      Why is the pump is making a whining noise all of the time?

      Air is in the system. Remove reservoir lid and inspect fluid level and condition. If fluid has foam or air bubbles present, you must bleed the system again.

      Rack and pinion

      For the first few minutes of driving my car, the steering is hard. Is the rack and pinion bad or the power steering pump?

      This symptom is classified as "morning sickness". This condition is caused by Teflon sealing rings on the spool valve wearing grooves in the aluminum housing of the rack and pinion resulting in an internal bypass of pressure. Once the housing warms up, the metal will expand and reduce the pressure loss. The rack and pinion must be replaced. Cardone Industries rack and pinions have steel sleeves installed that prevent morning sickness and are backed by a lifetime guarantee.

      The original rack would not return to center after I made a turn. I put a replacement rack in and its the same. What else could it be?

      The rack and pinion does not return to center by itself. Geometrically the front end will center the vehicle. If the vehicle will not return, first check the front end alignment then check for a restricted return line in the power steering system. If the return line is restricted/kinked, fluid pressure will build up and not return back to the pump.

      I replaced my rack and pinion. Why is the new one leaking at the top seal?

      If the return line is restricted/kinked, pressure will build up in the rack and leak at an area of the least amount of resistance which is usually the upper spool valve seal which is not a pressure seal.

      My original rack had "morning sickness" then I put in a replacement and this one is binding and has an intermittent hard steering problem. What’s going on?

      The steering system is most likely contaminated with particles from the original rack. Failure to flush the system properly will cause these particles to become lodged in the spool valve and cause the rack to bind. You can back flush the system to dislodge these particles. Using shop air pressure, blow air through the return line and place the pressure line in a container to catch the fluid, cycle the wheel left to right to clean both sides. Reinstall the lines and flush according to the instructions in the box.

      Since I replaced the rack, the power steering is whining. What happened? It never did this before!

      The most likely cause of power steering whine is air in the system. Follow the bleeding process in the instruction sheet. If the air returns after proper bleeding, it may be necessary to replace the pressure hose. A deteriorated pressure hose can cause air to enter the system. Also, make sure hoses do not touch frame or engine oil pan. As a general rule, replace hoses with every rack and pinion replacement.

      I put a replacement rack and pinion in and the steering wheel has too much play. Should I adjust the rack?

      No. The rack and pinion was already adjusted at the factory. No adjustment is necessary. Try isolating the rack to find out where the play is. If you hold the inner tie rod and have someone turn the wheel, is the play gone? If yes, problem is in the front-end; if not, remove the steering knuckle and lightly install vise grips on the sector shaft and check for play. If no play exists, check steering column or steering knuckle.

      How can I tell if a rack and pinion is Performance or Standard?

      Simply turn the wheel in one direction until it stops. Next turn it the opposite way and count the turns until it stops. 2-1/2 - 2-3/4 turns lock to lock is normally a Performance rack; 3 - 3-1/2 turns lock to lock is a Standard rack. The only major difference is a Corvette which is 2 turns for Performance and 2-1/2 turns for Standard.

      The rack and pinion is leaking out the boots which happen to be twisted and torn. Why?

      When the front end was aligned, the technician did not loosen the boot clamp when setting the toe. Failure to loosen the clamp twisted the boot which cracked during turns. Once the boot is torn, road debris and water was allowed to ruin the rack end seal.

      Why is my car pulling to one side after I replaced the rack?

      First check for proper alignment. Also check for proper tire inflation, worn or binding outer tie rods or a brake system failure.

    • Master cylinder

      What type of fluid should I use: DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT5?

      As a rule, always use the brake fluid recommended by OE which is stamped on the master cylinder lid.

      Note: Always use new fluid from a sealed container.

      What’s the difference between Dot 3, 4 and 5?

      Dot 3 and 4 are Glycol-based fluids and Dot 5 is a Silicone based fluid

      Why does it take me a long time to bleed a step bore style master cylinder?

      Refer to the installation instruction sheet for special step bore bleeding process. Bench bleed first by slowly depressing brake piston then release slowly and waiting 20 seconds before you push again. NEVER pump piston/pedal with a step bore style master cylinder. Follow the same process on the vehicle.

      Why does every master cylinder I install leak out the piston in the booster area?

      Make sure when bench bleeding that you use a blunt tool (wooded dowel) when bench bleeding. Check booster for a defective push rod seal. If this seal is bad, it could suck the brake fluid out of the master cylinder.

      I replaced the master cylinder and now the pedal is high and hard, Why?

      The master cylinder is working correctly. Check for a faulty brake booster or frozen wheel cylinder/caliper.

      The brake pedal is low and spongy. Is it a bad master cylinder?

      First, check for air in the system. Make sure master cylinder is level when bleeding. Air will compress in a hydraulic system causing a low pedal. Then check for brake hoses swelling/expanding under pressure. Then check brake drums/discs for proper specifications. And then check brake material.

      Why won’t the right front brake release? I just replaced the master cylinder.

      The right front brake not releasing is either a problem with the caliper or brake hose. If the master cylinder was defective, most likely both front brakes would not release.

      What causes the car to pull to one side during braking?

      Check the steering and suspension. Inspect both calipers for binding or sticky slides or pins. Check brake lining for oil/grease or uneven wear. Inspect brake hoses for restriction. Check for proper tire pressure.

      What causes the brakes to lock up after only a couple of miles?

      Replace all brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. Too much water in brake fluid will cause vapor lock and apply pressure to the wheels. Also check for proper push rod adjustments and stop light/cruise control switch adjustments.

      Why is the piston stuck inside the bore of my master cylinder?

      Most likely, the fluid in the system is contaminated. The most common contamination is that petroleum-based fluid has been accidentally used in or added to the brake system. If that has happened it is almost certain that all rubber components in the brake system (hoses, seals, bladders) will need to be replaced after the system is completely and thoroughly flushed. If the contamination is due to moisture, rust and/or dirt, it might be possible to restore operation by flushing the system and replacing the brake fluid with fresh, clean fluid. Always use the brake fluid specified by the vehicle original manufacture. Always use fluid from a sealed container.

      How can I test a master cylinder to see if it's bypassing?

      Simply plug the master cylinder ports and press the brake pedal. If the master cylinder is bypassing, the pedal will go down. If the pedal stops hard, the master cylinder is OK.

      Caliper

      What type of fluid should I use: DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT5?

      As a rule, always use brake fluid recommended by OE which is stamped on the master cylinder lid.

      Note: Always use new fluid from a sealed container.

      Are steel pistons better than phenolic, which are plastic?

      Phenolic pistons have an advantage over steel pistons;

      • Phenolic pistons do not rust
      • Phenolic pistons maintain original size regardless of age. They are not affected by heat or moisture in the brake system
      • Phenolic pistons do not transfer heat to the brake fluid
      • Phenolic pistons are lighter than steel
      • Phenolic pistons are fuel efficient and noise dampening
      What is a low drag caliper?

      A low drag caliper is designed to allow the piston to come further back in the caliper housing causing less friction. This improves gas mileage, pad life and reduces noise.

      I replaced a left side caliper and new pads and 2 months later the pad next to the piston was worn down but the other side was fine. Why?

      The caliper was not allowed to float on the pins/slides properly which caused the pad next to the piston to do all the braking. Whenever you install pads on a caliper, the slides must be lubricated to allow the caliper to float and apply the pads evenly.

      I installed a set of calipers and new pads on a Chevrolet Cavalier and 3 months later the right side was worn down to the rivets and the left side looked great. Do I have a bad caliper?

      The most likely problem was the system was not properly bled. When bleeding front wheel drive vehicles, they require a cross bleeding pattern due to the system being a split diagonal type, which means one front wheel and one rear wheel is grouped on one side of the master cylinder and the other sides are on the other half. This type needs to be bled in a cross pattern, usually RR, LF, LR and RF. If not properly bled, air will be trapped in one side and cause the other half to do the majority of braking. Also, check for a restricted brake hose.

      I installed a set of Loaded calipers, cut the rotors and used anti-squeal compound but the brakes squeal all the time. What do I do next?

      Brake squeal is usually caused by vibration. Always make sure the pads are tight on the caliper. Many vehicles required clinching of the tabs to assure a tight fit. Cardone Loaded Calipers come with constrained layer shims to reduce noise and excess vibration and the outboard pad is clinched to the housing at the factory where applicable. Also, make sure the rotors were cut with a non-directional finish.

      I have a caliper that locks up and won't release the pads. Should I just replace it?

      Not yet. Always check the system to make sure you are replacing the correct part and you know why the part went bad so the vehicle can be repaired properly. First open the bleeding valve on the caliper. If the pads release, then the caliper is good. If not, replace the caliper. Many times a defective hose or master cylinder is causing the pressure not to release.

      I replaced a caliper and now I can't get a firm brake pedal. Why?

      Make sure the bleeder is at the highest point when mounted on the vehicle. Some calipers can be mounted on the opposite axles. If you have a step bore type master cylinder, make sure youre bleeding it correctly (waiting 20 seconds).

      I put rear calipers on 2 months ago and now the pedal is low and bleeding won't help. What should I do?

      Adjust the calipers as per the instruction sheet.

      Tip: You must use the hand brake to keep rear calipers adjusted correctly.

      After caliper/pad replacement, the master cylinder is now acting up. What should I do?

      Whenever removal of the caliper is necessary, never force the piston in the bore without first opening the caliper bleeder valve and pinching off the flexible brake hose (use suitable tool) and forcing the brake fluid out of the system instead of back to the master cylinder. Contaminants or sediment will settle in the lowest point, the caliper, and if not forced out of the brake system, will go into the master cylinder and cause seal damage.

      Note: This is extremely important with ABS equipped vehicles.

      My car pulls to one side during braking. Why?

      Check the steering and suspension. Then, inspect both calipers for binding or sticky slides or pins. Check brake lining for oil/grease or uneven wear. Inspect brake hoses for restriction. Check for proper tire pressure.

      Why do my brakes lock up after only a couple of miles?

      Replace all brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. Too much water in brake fluid will cause vapor lock and apply pressure to the wheels. Also check for proper push rod adjustments and stop light/cruise control switch adjustments.

      Power brake booster

      The brake pedal is low and spongy. I guess I need to replace the booster, right?

      No. The booster will never cause a low or soft brake pedal, check for air or other hydraulic problems. A defective booster will only cause the pedal to become hard or not return.

      After a couple of brake applications, the pedal starts to get hard. How do I fix this?

      Check the vacuum source to the booster. Not only does the booster need at least 15 in. Hg, it also needs vacuum volume. The fitting normally on the intake manifold or carburetor will get clogged with carbon build up and restrict the vacuum volume.

      I replaced the booster and now the brakes are locked up and won't release. What should I do?

      Replace all brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. Too much water in brake fluid will cause vapor lock and apply pressure to the wheels. Also, carefully check for proper push rod adjustments and stop light/cruise control switch adjustments.

      The original problem was a hard brake pedal. I replaced the booster and I still have the same thing. What do I do now?

      Check for a seized caliper/wheel cylinder, pinched or restricted brake line. Next check vacuum source. Check for at least 15 in Hg. Next check vacuum volume.

      Tip: An easy test is to park a vehicle with a good brake pedal next to your car and run the vacuum to booster in question. If pedal is OK now, vacuum source is insufficient.

      I installed a new booster. Why am I hearing an air noise under the dash?

      This is usually a normal noise made during brake application due to atmospheric air entering the booster filter located around the push rod.

      Tip: Moving the silencer (foam seal) may reduce noise level.

      I replaced 3 boosters in less than 1 year. What can be causing the problem?

      Check for gas vapors in the booster. If the vehicles PCV is clogged, gas vapors will enter the booster and dry up the diaphragm. Repairing PCV system and installing a charcoal vacuum filter will eliminate problem.

      took off my old booster and there was brake fluid between the master cylinder and booster. Which one do I replace?

      Replace both master cylinder and brake booster.

      ABS

      Can I tell what type of system it is just by looking at the part number?

      Yes.

      What type of fluid should I use?

      DOT 3, as a rule always use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer which is located on the Master Cylinder lid.

      Can I use different size tires?

      NO! Different tire sizes will give false readings to the ABS controller. This will cause inaccurate wheel speed readings. Always check tire size before ABS service.

      Do I need to depressurize the system before brake service?

      Yes but only for Integral units with an electric pump and accumulator.

      Note: Not necessary for Non-Integral units (add-on units with normal Brake Boosters and Brake System).

      How do I depressurize the system?

      First turn the ignition switch OFF. Next firmly apply and release the brake pedal 40 or more complete strokes. A noticeable change in brake pedal feel will occur when the accumulator is completely discharged.

      Should the brake fluid be changed regularly?

      Yes every two years/24,000 miles or when brake service is required.

      I have a low pedal on a RWAL system, I changed the Master Cylinder and bled the system and the pedal is still low, why?

      Most likely contamination is in the system’s control valve holding the dump valve off it’s seat. This allows rear brake pressure to be released into the accumulator. Isolate the system to determine root cause.

      I have a GM RWAL two wheel drive with an automatic transmission that has a sinking pedal accompanied by several distinct clicks and a flashing brake warning light, what’s the problem?

      Contamination on the speed sensor inside the transmission (axle on Ford RABS). The sensor is picking up metal filings in the fluid. This distorts the signal and tricks the ABS controller into believing that the rear wheels are locking up.

      I checked a GM RWAL for trouble codes and now the brake warning light is on and a code 9 is stored. It had no codes before. What’s the problem?

      When manual trouble code diagnosis indicates no codes stored, removal of jumper tool will set a false code 9. To clear the code the ABS module must be reset. Turn off ignition switch Remove ABS module brake fuse Wait 10 seconds and re-install fuse.

      Hydro-vac

      My brake pedal is hard all the time. Should I replace the hydro-vac?

      Make sure to check the vacuum supply. It should be at least 18-22 inches of vacuum. Also check for contamination in the system, frozen calipers, frozen wheel cylinders, or a restriction that can cause a hard pedal.

      I replaced the hydro-vac and my pedal still drops to the floor. What’s wrong?

      This is a hydraulic system failure, not a booster defect. Several things may be causing this condition: Air in the system, material friction compression, brake hoses expanding, or defective drums. To diagnose the system begin by gently pinching off the rubber hoses closest to the master cylinder. Release one brake hose at a time. Press the brake pedal. If the pedal is firm and hard, move to the next circuit. Repeat the process until the circuit containing the defective component is located (the pedal will be soft or sinking). Replace defective components as necessary. Also bleed the system thoroughly.

      I hear a loud hissing coming from the unit and have a hard brake pedal. What’s wrong?

      Check the vacuum connectors and hoses for leaks. If none are found, the diaphragm has ruptured and is leaking. Replace the unit.

      I replaced my hydro-vac unit several times because it has failed. What is causing this problem?

      The most likely cause of the repeat failures is gasoline contamination from the engine. Check engine for a rich running condition. Correct as necessary.

      I just replaced the hydro-vac and now my brakes lock up. What’s wrong?

      Check the following: brake fluid for contamination, proper master cylinder push rod adjustment, frozen wheel cylinders or calipers, restricted hose(s). If OK, water is present in the brake fluid causing it to expand and apply pressure to the brake assemblies. Flush the system.

      The installation instructions state that oil must be added to the diaphragm. What is the correct fluid to use?

      Only units with leather diaphragms need oil added to the unit upon initial installation. Install two to three ounces of hydraulic fluid into the diaphragm via the vacuum fitting.

      How can I tell a single from a dual diaphragm unit?

      Single units have only one vacuum chamber and duals have two diaphragms in tandem.

    • Electronic control computer

      I put my new ECM and PROM in and the PROM blew out. Why?

      The most common cause of PROM burn-out is when the PROM is put in backwards. This will short out the PROM. It is very important that the PROM be inserted in the ECM properly to avoid this problem.

      Before I put in a new ECM, how do I know that it will fix my problem?

      Before installing an ECM, you must test ALL related circuits on the vehicle to determine which one(s) caused the failure. Use the HOT BOX or a DVOM and measure the resistance at the harness connector. If any values are less than the specified ohms, you must find and fix the cause.

      Special Note: The most common cause of ecm failure is due to one or more of the ecm controlled solenoids / relays shorted

      I plugged in the new ECM and it didn’t fix the problem. What now?

      Prior to replacing the ECM, the installer should determine what caused the ECM to fail. Common areas that cause failures are: poor grounds and powers, bad wiring, shorted solenoids/relays, or misdiagnosis by the installer.

      I replaced the ECM and now I have a steady check engine light and a code 51. Why?

      Make sure it is fully seated. Also check for bent or broken prongs on the PROM.

      What is a QDR test and how can it help me?

      QDR stands for Quad Driver. Testing the QDR’s will help pin point the cause of the ECM’s failure and prevent the same thing from reoccurring again.

      The replacement ECM for a Ford vehicle won’t start the vehicle. Why?

      The wrong ECM might have been installed. Verify the O.E. service number crosses to the correct CARDONE number.

      Distributor

      Why did the gear pin break after I installed a remanufactured distributor?

      The gear pin is designed to break to avoid damage to the cam gear and the camshaft. This problem is due to an oil pump that has seized due to insufficient oil. Inspect the oil pump. If pump does not turn freely it must be replaced.

      My oil pump is not seized and there is plenty of oil, but the distributor I placed in the motor had the gear teeth broken when I started the vehicle. What should I do now?

      Distributor gear and camshaft drive gear wear together in a pattern. When only one of the pair is replaced, repeat failure is highly possible. Inspect both gears, if either is worn, both must be replaced. Be sure to match replacement unit with original gear and shaft bottom.

      Mass airflow / vane airflow

      What function does the maf/vane airflow sensor perform?

      The MAF sensor informs the engine control computer of the load on the engine by measuring airflow in grams per second of air over a sensing element or in the case of the VANE AIRFLOW sensor, the position of the door is measured as it is moved by the air entering the unit. This information is used by the ECM to calculate fuel delivery.

      How can a malfunctioning maf/vane airflow sensor affect my vehicles’ operation?

      A malfunctioning MAF/VANE AIRFLOW sensor can cause any one or more of the following symptoms: hesitation, stalling, poor fuel economy or poor engine performance.

      How can i determine if the maf/vane airflow sensor is bad?

      Visually inspect the sensor element in the MAF for damage or for a burnt smell. In the VANE AIRFLOW sensor, inspect the door for binding or for a burnt smell unit. Start the engine and tap lightly on the unit. If tapping causes an engine malfunction or intermittent operation the unit is faulty and must be replaced.

      What should i do before i replace the maf/airflow sensor?

      First check for and note any MAF/VANE AIRFLOW related trouble codes stored in the engine control computer. Inspect the wiring harness and connectors for damage. All MAF/VANE AIRFLOW relays MUST be checked for resistance (20 OHMS resistance or greater). Anything relay under this resistance must be replaced. Failure to do this will damage the replacement unit. Moisture entering the unit through split air ducts, or gas/oil fumes from the engine can also cause premature failure. Repair or replace as necessary. Correct any pre-existing conditions that caused stored trouble codes.

      What goes bad in vane airflow type units?

      The most common causes are: worn vane assembly, cracked housing, or cracked printed circuit board. These conditions require unit replacement.

      What goes bad in MAF sensors?

      The most common causes are: cracked circuit boards, burned sensing filaments, poor solder joints, defective conformalcoat, or loose printed circuit board components.

      What are the most common causes of maf/vane airflow sensor problems?

      Overvoltage sources from relays, shorted wiring, cracked printed circuit boards, moisture entering the unit through split air ducts, electrical connections and wiring, air intake obstructions or gas/oil fumes from the engine can cause failure. Check air filter and air ways for dirt or debris. Check for loose or faulty connectors, broken or faulty wiring. Be sure to check these to prevent damage to the replacement unit.

    • Smog pump

      Why does the smog pump I installed make noise?

      Due to the use of new parts on these units, there will be a certain amount of time needed for break-in. We suggest that a 500 mile run-in be allowed and the noise will go away.

      My vehicle is not running right and it just failed for emissions. Is the smog pump defective?

      This is not necessarily the fault of the pump. A defective, worn belt or defective valves and or check valves could be the problem. These should be checked and replaced before the pump.

      Water pump

      After mounting the pump on the vehicle and after running, the shaft broke. The shaft was blue. Does this mean the pump burned up?

      The pump did not burn up, however the shaft broke due to a stress fracture caused by:

      • Excessive high temperatures
      • Improperly torqued mounting bolts
      • Bent or distorted pulley(s)
      • Fan bent, cracked, not mounted squarely
      • Defective fan clutch Improperly tightened belt(s)
      I just replaced the water pump and my engine is over-heating. Is the water pump defective?

      The engine overheating could be due to components other than the water pump. The following should be checked and replaced, if necessary, before the pump is. Flush the system. Check hoses, clamps and seals. Check radiator cap and thermostat. Check for proper and sufficient coolant. Check for cracks, warpage and other damage.

      Vacuum pump

      What are the different types of vacuum pumps?

      Several styles used are: distributor, fuel pump, gear driven (cam type), belt driven, and electric.

      Are pulleys supplied with Cardone belt driven units (where applicable)?

      No. The original pulley must be transferred to replacement pump.

      How do I remove the original pulley and install it on the replacement unit?

      ALWAYS use the proper pulley puller to remove the pulley. Use the installation tool supplied in the box and follow the installation instructions provided. NEVER hammer on pulley or pump to remove or install pulley.

      How much vacuum is produced by vacuum pumps?

      The range produced by vacuum pumps can be 18 to 24 inches of Hg (vacuum), depending upon application.

      There is a vacuum leak around unit, what’s wrong?

      Check for loose, cracked, missing vacuum lines or fittings.

      Oil is leaking from my original vacuum pump, what’s wrong?

      A damaged diaphragm or bad internal seals can cause oil leaks. Replacement of unit is necessary.

      The pump is not drawing enough vacuum. Why?

      Check the air inlet. Debris, contamination, blocked filter or collapsed hoses may be preventing air from entering unit. Also check the condition of the unit for excessive wear. Repair or replace as necessary.

      On the original gear driven unit the gear teeth are damaged, what could be wrong?

      A bent shaft, damaged housing, seized bearings, a defective oil pump or a worn valve train could have placed too much load on gears causing damage or abnormal wear. Always check the original unit’s gear teeth. If any wear or damage is found, the drive gear, (cam gear/shaft) should be checked and repaired as necessary.

      If an electric pump produces no vacuum, what should be checked?

      If motor does not run check fuse, wiring and control switch. Check air inlet, be sure it is free of debris and hoses are good. If a filter is installed, check for blockage. Carefully tap on the unit lightly with the ignition key in the run position. If the unit runs, the motor armature is bad. Replace the vacuum pump.

    • Wiper motor

      Why won’t the wiper motor park? It just continues to stop in the middle of the windshield.

      The resistance in the ground path to the motor is bad. You must check to see if the grounds to the motor are good. It may be necessary to scrape off some paint to insure a good connection. You may have to add a ground strap between the motor and engine block.

      I just installed a new wiper motor and put my old washer pump on and the motor does not work. Is the motor defective?

      The motor is NOT defective. There are some wiper motors that will not operate if the washer pump is defective. This may be the original motor problem. Bench test wiper motor and washer pump before replacing either.

      Why won’t the wiper motor work? I have everything hooked up properly.

      Bench test the unit. If the unit operates properly, check the wiring harness ground, terminal ground lug or ground strap. If the motor still does not operate properly, check the switch and switch circuit.

      Window lift

      Why does the motor I installed run in the wrong direction?

      It is common that installation of some motors require the use of the original connector. If the motor is running opposite of the original then the polarity must be reversed.

    • CV Drivetrain System

      I installed a replacement CV drive axle and now my ABS light is on and won't go out. Why?

      When the replacement drive axle was installed, the sensor ring, sensor, or sensor wiring on or near the axle was damaged, causing an erratic speed signal to the ABS module and setting the light on.

      When I cut the wheel hard and step on the gas, I hear loud clicking and snapping. What's making that noise?

      The most likely cause is a defective or worn outer CV axle joint. It may be time to get it replaced.

      When I step on the gas, I hear a loud thump and feel a bad vibration. What's wrong?

      The most likely cause is the drive train shifting in the chassis due to a broken engine mount or hardware, causing misalignment of the axle and causing the inner joint to bind or hang up.

      I hear a grinding noise from the front end while driving and see grease on the chassis and suspension. What is causing this?

      The most likely problem is the outer CV boot has ruptured, causing the grease to leak out, allowing contamination (water and dirt) to enter and damage the joint.

      I removed both axles at the same time and now I am having problems reinstalling them. What can I do?

      The transaxle gear alignment has been lost. On some vehicles it will be necessary to disassemble the transaxle to properly align the output gears. ALWAYS remove and install one axle at a time when replacing the drive axles.

      The old axle has a locking style (prevailing torque) nut on the axle. Should I reuse it?

      NO! Prevailing type lock nuts should never be reused. Always discard old and install a new one.

      The CV fixed joint is stuck in the hub assembly. What's the best way to remove it?

      Always use the proper press type tool to remove the old shaft. NEVER strike the outer stub shaft with a hammer. It will damage the unit and possibly do damage to the hub bearing assembly.

      Is it OK to use an impact hammer to install the retaining nut?

      Never use an impact wrench to install the nut on the axle. Always use a torque wrench and torque the nut to manufactures specifications.

      When I replace the drive axles, should I reuse the old seals?

      When replacing axle assemblies, always install new transaxle seals.

      Can I let the axles hang while I am working on the car?

      Never allow the CV shafts to hang unsupported. This can lead to axle separation and damage to the inner joint.

      The wheels wobble when I make a turn. What's the problem?

      The most likely cause is a broken bearing cage due to excessive torque load. Typically this in an outboard joint problem.