The suspension on your vehicle determines how well your vehicle flexes and moves when you are off-road. Suspensions can be soft or hard and can even lift your vehicle higher off the ground. A good suspension system will improve your off-road performance while maintaining a quality highway ride.
Many manufacturers of lift kits claim to improve the off road ability of a vehicle by simply lifting it to clear bigger tires. While this method does help in some areas such as approach and departure angles, break over angles and axle clearance, it raises the center of gravity.
The approach angle is the measure of incline that a vehicle can approach without running the bumper.
Just as the right kind of tire is needed for snow, so is the right kind of tire needed for off-road performance. You want a tire that will grip onto slick rock and pull you through the most extreme obstacles. Choosing the right kind of tire and right size for your vehicle is key to your off road performance.
Many factors play into tire size. The bigger the tire, the more ground clearance you have, but not without risking your center of gravity.
The center of gravity is the center position of balance for a vehicle, or the average location of a vehicle weight. A low center of gravity allows a vehicle to not only side hill well, but increases the angle that a vehicle can climb and descend.
Tire size is also affected by how high off the ground your vehicle is. When a lift kit is installed, you may choose to run a bigger tire size. Suspension also plays a role in which size tires will fit and which will hit. By understanding your whole vehicle - suspension, flex, body, etc. - you can make a good choice in tire size.
Lockers are devices that keep your wheels spinning even if you are losing traction. In most vehicles, when one tire begins to spin (lose traction), all of the power goes to making that tire spin to regain traction. A locker sends an equal distribution of power to both wheels on an axle.
A locking differential provides equal torque to the vehicle.
When riding a mountain bike up a hill, it is always easier to gear down, or you will run out of energy. This is the same concept with your vehicle. Low range is implemented to help you gear down and make good use of your engine power to help you over those steep hills, and to save your brakes when going downhill. Low range keeps your tires spinning at a slow pace with lots of power behind it. It can hold your engine back without constantly riding the brakes.
TeraFlex Low Range gear conversion products can increase your low range crawl ratio by as much as 50%, resulting in improved off road control and performance.
Rockcrawling with the TeraLow gives you the advantage of being able to start your engine on very steep inclines without using your clutch and with automatics compression braking improved when coming down a hill.
The key benefit of TeraLow conversion kits is that they improve gearing for off-roading without sacrificing the high-range gearing for highway driving, because TeraLow transfer case conversions are designed to be used in all vehicles.
Have you ever been driving down the road wondering if you have birds chirping underneath your vehicle? Well I'm sure it has happened to the best of us. This is where driveline maintenance becomes very important.
Having a well maintained driveline will not only save you money, but will save you time and headache on the trail and even just normal road driving. A dry driveline starts by heating up to the point of making chirping noises, then moves to grinding noises, then soon after that, you'll be lucky to keep your driveline from falling off and destroying the bottom of your vehicle. The driveline is key to the functionality of your vehicle, so come on, guys and gals, let's keep them up to par.
Thinks that all you have to do is make sure there is grease in the u joints and the splines of the shaft itself? Wong. In a CV style drive shaft, which is very common in lifted vehicles, there is a center link called the CV ball, which is about an inch in diameter. This ball is what allows the driveline to handle extreme angles at higher speeds without burning up. The trick is in keeping this so called steel CV ball nice and greased at all times. This will require a needle Zerk fitting and usually requires taking off the driveline, at least one end of it.
A big question is, How often should you grease the drivelines in your vehicle? The best opinion is every 3,000 miles, but it may differ with certain applications or driving styles. Every time you go out wheeling or on a long road trip, you should get under there and re-grease it all. A properly greased driveline is a happy driveline.
Yes, the Teraflex steering stabilizer shock will install with the Jeeps factory hardware. Teraflex supplies the correct sleeve in the kit, to work with the factory bolt.
The rubber bushing goes to the frame.
If you have a metal sleeve in the bushing, it needs to be removed and discarded. Push the center metal sleeve out from the swaybar link mounting on the axle end.
Based on stock bumpers, you should expect 3” inches in the front and 2.25” inches in the rear.
No extra parts are required unless you have a 2012 or newer JK and plan on adding an aftermarket shock other than TeraFlex. Otherwise, the Exhaust Spacer Kit #261000 is required. If 35” tires are installed TeraFlex does recommend the HD Front Adjustable Track Bar #1753418.
They do not, the kit uses a stock shock or stock-length aftermarket shock.
The Exhaust Spacer Kit is not required when the TeraFlex 2.5” 9550 series shocks are used or the TeraFlex shock extensions. When an aftermarket shock is used, such as our optional Fox Racing shock, then the Exhaust Spacer #2610000 is required.
No, the Third-Row Seat Bracket Kit requires a factory 2007-2015 JK 2 door rear seat, and only a factory JK 2 door rear seat.
No, the Drag Link Flip is beneficial with 4” of lift or more.
Yes, they are necessary to correct geometry created from the increased lift angles.
Yes they can.
Yes, TeraFlex designed the spring kits to bring up the nose of the Jeep as well as lift the Jeep to help get rid of the nose down look of a stock Jeep.
This can be a common problem if the nut is not put on with an impact gun. For this reason the engineers designed a spot to hold the stud with an allen wrench in the end of the stud.
Place some electrical tape around a pair of lock pliers, such as vise grips. Once the tape is applied you can lock the pliers onto the shock shaft and use that to hold the shaft in place.
This is a common occurrence on all Jeeps. In fact, the new JK Wrangler has adapted the terminology “JK lean.” The causation of this lean is due to the fact that the spare tire weight as well as the gas tank weight is predominantly held on the passenger (right hand side) of the Jeep, making it lean this way. You may even notice that the lean gets better or worse depending on how much fuel is in the gas tank. The lean is a natural occurrence and even happens on stock Jeeps, we just fail to notice because the straight line reference of the bumper blends in better with the axle and the shadows of a stock Jeep. The lean can be helped by placing a ½” leveling spacer in the right rear corner. Be advised that when the Jeep is low on fuel this corner may stick up higher than the rest.
These are actually one in the same question. The cause stems from the fact that Jeep installed the rear flares on different planes, as well as made the rear flare opening smaller so it looks tighter. The proper way to measure a Jeep’s ride height is to measure from the ground up to the frame’s section between the wheels that is flat and parallel to the ground. Expect a slight variance front to back as the Jeep’s weight distribution isn’t even from side to side, due to the gas tank being on the right hand side.
The 3" lift will actually sit about 1" higher due to the changing of the springs, so you gain a little more clearance there. Now it all depends on what size tire you want to run. With 35's as the ultimate goal I would steer you towards a 3" lift. Rausch requires a fair amount of articulation on most trails and a 2.5" lift with stock fenders and 35's would rub. The 2.5" kits come with drop brackets for the rear brakes lines, while the 3" lift and above will really need control arms to correct pinion and castor angles, and to help steering and death wobble causes. With 35’s you only need the front lowers and rear uppers, so just 4 arms. TeraFlex brand has a kit with those in it. Another item to consider is the front monster track bar. It is not a requirement, but a really nice upgrade as it lets you center the axle and it stiffens the over center steering feel. The kit #1256220 includes the 3" kit, 4 arms, shocks and trackbar for a 4 door JK. Talk to your favorite dealer for the best pricing.
Now, you could run a 2.5" lift and get the tire clearance you need, but with the uneven glacier flows at RC, a little extra belly clearance is never a bad thing. However, if the budget is the primary concern, then I'd rock a 2.5" lift with trimmed factory fenders and recognize that the belly might get beat up, so some armor would be a good investment. Just remember that the more weight you add, the lower the jeep will sit, so there will be a balancing act if you choose to go with a 2.5" lift.