1. FAQ Clutch Quadrant & Cable Kits

Q. I just bought a BBK Adjustable Clutch Cable and Quadrant kit. Where do I hook the return spring to?


A. The Aluminum quadrant supplied with the kit is not specifically designed with any sort of recess or hook-up for the return spring from the stock quadrant. It is designed to sit at the top of the clutches engagement point, so that there is as little play as possible. This is a desirable set up when doing any performance-oriented driving, as it allows you to customize where you want the pedal to engage, and eliminates the "dead space" found on the stock clutch set up.


Q. I Purchased a BBK Adjustable Clutch Quadrant kit with Firewall Adjuster part BBK-16095, but the housing on the cable doesn't seem to be removable, so I can't mount it to the firewall adjuster. Is it possible to remove the housing from the cable?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-15050, BBK-1609, BBK-16095, BBK-3519)
A. Yes, it is possible to remove the housing from the cable for use with the firewall adjuster. However, you should use caution as it will require some cutting, and you do not want to injure yourself or cause irreparable damage to the part. You should start by removing the metal retaining clip from the base of the hard plastic shell. Then, you will need to cut that hard plastic shell down its entire length. It is a relatively thin cover, but you will probably need more than scissors or a knife; perhaps a Dremel-type tool with a grinding wheel or cutting wheel will greatly help. Once this is done, you may remove the shell. Now, there should be a large rubber grommet. This rubber grommet can either be trimmed down and re-used between the firewall adjuster and the stop on the cable, or it can simply be removed. It should easily slide off of the base and over the clutch cable head.


Q. No matter how much I adjust my clutch quadrant and cable kit, every time I put the car into reverse, it grinds out. What am I doing wrong? Is something wrong with my kit?


A. Almost certainly it is nothing that you are doing wrong that is causing this to happen. The T-5 transmission is notorious for this behavior. It isn't related to your clutch and its operation, but rather the internal synchronizers in the transmission itself. If you have trouble with grinding when trying to get into reverse gear, then firstly put the car into first gear. Normally, when you put the transmission into first gear before trying reverse, it will help line up the transmission and give you a trouble-free shift. Make sure you do not release pressure on the clutch between the first-gear shift and entering into reverse.

2. Cold-Air Intake Systems

Q. I bought a Cold Air Induction Kit BBK-1557 with Fenderwell mount for my 1986-1989 Mustang with Speed Density, but it won't work for me. Do I need a different part?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1557, BBK-1558)
A. You have the right kit, but since BBK air intake kits are designed around the mass air metering system which is absent in your application, you will also need to get a hold of part BBK-1558, which is a chrome adapter piece that will take up the space for the missing mass air meter.


Q. I Have a 94-95 Mustang Cobra. Will Kit BBK-1712 work for me?


(part numbers affected include: 1712)
A. On the 94-95 mustangs, the Cobra models used the same intake structure as the GT's so you bought to be just fine running the BBK-1712 cold air kit. Even the Cobra R model should be able to run it, though due to the larger 351 motor, the kit might be stretched further than you would like it to be.


Q. Why doesn't my Cold Air Kit have a place to hook up my Mass Air wires?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1556, BBK-1557, BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725, BBK-1726, BBK-17260, BBK-1720, BBK-1727, BBK-1728, BBK-1729, BBK-1730, BBK-1731, BBK-1732, BBK-1733, BBK-1734)
A. The Cold Air Kit does not replace the factory mass air system, but rather uses it in-line. You will need to attach your mass air system to the proper mounting point on the BBK Cold Air Induction system. This may require disassembly of the mass air meter from the air silencer on some models and the strut tower on others.


Q. My BBK Cold Air Induction System has a hole in the upper tube. My stock one didn't have that. What am I supposed to do with this hole?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725)
A. Some models have a separate sensor that plugs into that port. However, for the models that do not need it, the kit includes a couple of parts to help you out. You should have a small, black rubber grommet that will go in that hole along the diameter, and an aluminum plug that will seal against the grommet, effectively sealing the hole off!


Q. My Cold Air Kit for my 96-04 Mustang doesn't have the oval filter like the one in the ads. Did I get the wrong one?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725)
A. The oval filter element is solely for the 5.0L Mustangs, and will not fit well on the 4.6L mustangs. The Filter element in your kit should be a circular, conical type, so you most likely do have the correct filter element for your project.


Q. I bought a BBK Cold Air kit for my car, but it doesn't seem to fit together. It seems too long. What is the matter?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1556, BBK-1557, BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725, BBK-1720)
A. We realize that many mustang enthusiasts have purchased their rides "used.," or second-hand. The BBK kits were designed around a stock Mass air meter and its dimensions. Sometimes, previous owners will have changed certain parts out to get better performance. Often, people will change out the Mass Air meters for larger after market ones. Some of the after market offerings are not only larger in diameter, but also LONGER than stock. If the Cold Air kit "goes too far" forward or backward, verify your Mass Air meter first. You might need to replace your mass air meter with one that is stock or has a length similar to stock.


Q. I tried to hook up my Cold Air kit, but it won't seal at the Mass air meter bolt-up location. What's wrong?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725)
A. The factory sometimes supplies a screen that can interfere with the seal to the BBK elbow. As the screen serves no real purpose so long as the filter element is in place, it is safe to remove it. This will give you slightly better performance, and also give you a better seal at the elbow. If you still feel that the seal is not adequate for your tastes, you may want to try a little silicone sealant along the mating surfaces; This should ensure an airtight seal.


Q. I purchased a Cold Air Kit for my 4.6L Cobra. Why does the chrome on the upper tube appear to be pitted?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1725)
A. Most likely what you are seeing is not really the pitting of the chrome. Due to the unique shape and routing of the upper tube on the Cobra models, the piece cannot be made out of standard bent tubing and then chromed. Instead, the piece must be cast out of aluminum, then finished off with a special chroming technique. Due to the rough and porous nature of the cast inlet, and the ability of the chroming technique to accurately cover the surface, you will sometimes see small pit-like marks that are actually just the shape of the surface of the underlying aluminum cast piece. You should not have to worry about your chrome flaking off; those small indentations are actually a sign of the quality of the chroming process, and you should have years of pleasure from your Cold Air Kit.


Q. I want to get a BBK Cold Air Intake and a BBK Strut tower brace. Will the brace clear the CAI?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-2504, BBK-25040, BBK-2513, BBK-25130, BBK-2516, BBK-15160, BBK-1556, BBK-1557, BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725)
A. The BBK strut tower design did take into consideration the routing of our Cold Air kit, so you should have no troubles with the two on your engine.


Q. I think that I have the wrong filter for my BBK Cold Air Induction kit. The filter won't fit through the hole in the Fenderwell. Is this the wrong one?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1556, BBK-1557, BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725, BBK-1726, BBK-17260, BBK-1720, BBK-1727, BBK-1728, BBK-1729, BBK-1730, BBK-1731, BBK-1732, BBK-1733, BBK-1734)
A. The instructions supplied with the kit should properly outline the installation process, which will ask that you install the filter only as the last step, from underneath the vehicle. However, should you for some reason be without your copy of the instructions, you can follow this basic outline: you will first need to install the remainder of the kit fully into the vehicle. The upper tube will need to be attached to the Mass Air meter and the throttle body. The lower section of tubing will need to be attached to the Mass Air meter, and also to the Fenderwell. In order to get the best seal possible, you will need to remove the screen from the Mass Air meter, and in order to mount to the Fenderwell, you will need to make sure the grommets from the stock air box are in place in the frame, and use the supplied studs to push down into the grommets. Once this is complete, you will need to get underneath the vehicle on the Passenger side, in front of the front wheel. You should then be able to look up to see the Fenderwell mount protruding through and install the filter onto it. Then you will need to tighten it down with a supplied hose clamp.


3. Exhaust Headers

Q. Why is Polished Ceramic a better choice for Header Coating than Chrome?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1512, BBK-15120, BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1525, BBK-15250, BBK-1529 15290, BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690, BBK-3520, BBK-35200, BBK-3521, BBK-35210, BBK-1511, BBK-15110, BBK-3510, BBK-35100, BBK-3511, BBK-35110, BBK-3515, BBK-35150, BBK-3516, BBK-35160, BBK-4005, BBK-40050, BBK-4006, BBK-40060, BBK-40000, BBK-40010, BBK-40040, BBK-4002, BBK-40020, BBK-4003, BBK-40030, BBK-1567, BBK-15670, BBK-1568, BBK-15680, BBK-1596, BBK-15960, BBK-15950)
A. Chrome has a very classy finish to it that many people enjoy. However, due to the extreme temperatures experienced in the exhaust system, chrome will tend to discolor over time. Polished ceramic on the other hand will retain its color much longer than chrome, and offer better longevity and protection for your exhaust system. It also has the added benefit of heat displacement; polished ceramic will not allow as much heat to seep through to your engine compartment - it will push it out the exhaust! This will lead to slightly lower temperatures in the engine compartment, further adding to both its life span as well as other components in your engine bay.


Q. The 5.0L shorty header system lists as only for 86-93. Can I use it on my 1985 or older mustang?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1512, BBK-15120)
A. The shorty systems are fully capable of being used on 79-85 mustang engines. However, they are not a direct bolt-on for the remainder of the system. The 86 and ups used a dual exhaust system with an H-pipe that differed from the earlier models. If you have plans to upgrade your 79-85 mustang to the newer dual exhaust system, then a BBK shorty header upgrade would be a great way to finish off that job, and will help you make maximum horsepower from your project pony.


Q. I am trying to decide between regular shorties or equal length shorty headers for my 5.0L Mustang. Which do you think I should pick?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1512, BBK-15120, BBK-1525, BBK-15250, BBK-1529, BBK-15290)
A. There is no "right" answer to this question! Both have their up sides and down sides, and both are potent performers. The equal length shorties offer better performance for the dollar, no doubt. But the down side is that because of the extra tubing required before the collector, you will have to work around all that mass during install and tune ups, and there will be less clearance. The regular shorty headers are still a great value, and offer much improved performance over stock. And since they follow an easy design, installation and tune ups is more of a breeze than with the equal lengths. In the end, the decision is yours: Do you want the most power you can get out of shorty headers, or are you more interested in a balanced power gain with easier installation and maintenance?


Q. My Long Tube Headers for my 4.6L Mustang will not allow my dipstick tube to fit properly. What must be done?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690)
A. The long tube header install will require that you modify your dipstick tube to fit. This simply entails bending the tubing of the dipstick for clearance and then re-installing.


Q. I ordered BBK-1532 / BBK-15320 Long Tube Headers for my 98 Cobra, but my pipes have the EGR in the wrong spot. Did I get the wrong part for my car?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940)
A. The 1998 Cobra has a different EGR location than any other Cobra model. But, the connections are the same, and the tubing can be modified to work with the EGR outlet on the BBK headers. The piping must simply be bent to match the opening direction in order to allow the pieces to screw together.


Q. Will the Long Tube System be compatible with Factory and after market Cat-Back systems?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690,1635, BBK-1658, BBK-1659, BBK-1660, BBK-1671, BBK-1672, BBK-1509, BBK-1510, BBK-1535, BBK-1538, BBK-1560, BBK-1561)
A. The long Tube systems are designed to replace the factory exhaust manifolds, as well as the factory H-pipe. However, they will still meet up with the factory cat-back system in the same location, ensuring that you can safely run any after market cat-back system designed to work with the factory pipes.


Q. The Long Tube Header system states that it is for Manual transmissions only. Why won't it work on my Automatic?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690)
A. The Automatic transmissions are much larger than their manual counterparts. This greatly affects the already-small amount of passage space there is for the larger piping required to fit passed this area. There is also the linkage to worry about; the automatic transmission has linkage on the side that the pipes could interfere with, not allowing you to shift properly through the range. You very well might be able to get them to work on an automatic-equipped car. However, we don't advertise it, as it is not a "direct bolt-on." Fitting them to an automatic car requires some grinding of the transmission and bell housing, as well as some modification to the pipes. Since making them work on an automatic requires modification to the part, BBK will not warranty the fitment nor the piece that was modified, and thus they are advertised as a direct fit for manual transmissions only. Fitting them to an automatic car unfortunately becomes a custom application, though we know that many customers have adapted them to fit, and are happy with the performance gains of their new long tubes.


Q. What is the proper way to fasten my Header system to the vehicle?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1512, BBK-15120, BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1525, BBK-15250, BBK-1529 15290, BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690, BBK-3520, BBK-35200, BBK-3521, BBK-35210, BBK-1511, BBK-15110, BBK-3510, BBK-35100, BBK-3511, BBK-35110, BBK-3515, BBK-35150, BBK-3516, BBK-35160, BBK-4005, BBK-40050, BBK-4006, BBK-40060, BBK-40000, BBK-40010, BBK-40040, BBK-4002, BBK-40020, BBK-4003, BBK-40030, BBK-1567, BBK-15670, BBK-1568, BBK-15680, BBK-1596, BBK-15960, BBK-15950)
A. There are many ways that it could be done. However, some will yield less-than-spectacular results. Generally, you will want to install the header bolts hand-tight in each hole. Once that is accomplished, you should start tightening them down from the inside out; meaning that you should begin with the bolts at the center of the header, and work out towards both ends alternatively. This will help keep the flange from flexing abnormally, and will allow a much better seal than if you were to start at the front and work towards the back.


Q. I received my Long Tube Headers for my 4.6L Mustang. The Driver's Side has what appears to be a dent in the 2nd tube. Is this header damaged?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410)
A. The clearance on the Driver's side of the engine compartment is very tight, so tight that you will be hard-pressed to fit anything there as large as a Long-tube Header kit. Thankfully, BBK has done the hard work for you! That "dent" in the tube is actually a clearance recess, so that the headers will not interfere with the operation of your steering shaft. Do not worry, that bend in the tube is there before it leaves BBK factory, and is not a defect at all. You should enjoy great performance gains of your long tube header system once you have it all installed, regardless of that particular bend.


Q. I have an F-series Super Duty. Will your F-150 headers work for my vehicle?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-3510, BBK-35100, BBK-3511, BBK-35110, BBK-3515, BBK-35150, BBK-3516, BBK-35160)
A. The BBK header system is designed around a non-Super Duty frame. Due to the added bracing to the frame on the Super Duty trucks, BBK header system will not work with these models without modification to the part and/or the vehicle. Since the part may have to be modified to fit, BBK does not advertise it as a direct bolt on, and cannot warranty the fitment nor any user-modified pieces.


Q. I have a Ford Expedition. I see that BBK offers headers for a 97-03 F-150. Since the Expedition frames are the same as the F-150, can't I use it on my vehicle?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-3515, BBK-35150, BBK-3516, BBK-35160)
A. Well, yes and no. Yes, the expedition uses the same frame as the F-150, but in 2003 the Expedition had a major makeover, to include the change to a new frame (in fact, the frame that the newer 2004 F-150 uses). While it technically is still using the F-150 frame, the 03's are in fact different from their predecessors. So for any Expedition model 97-02, you can still use either the BBK-3515 and BBK-35150, or BBK-3516 and BBK-35160 headers, depending on your motor. But, the 2003 Expedition will NOT be able to use these header systems.


Q. I purchased a set of headers for my LT-1 motor. The EGR fittings on my engine are female, and so are the BBK headers! Is this the right kit for my application?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1567, BBK-15670, BBK-1568, BBK-15680, BBK-1596, BBK-15960, BBK-15950)
A. The kit you have is most likely correct. All of the LT-1 headers that BBK offers use a female connection for the EGR tubing. Don't get mad yet, though! We are fully aware that some models utilize a male threaded hookup on the exhaust system instead of a female one, and supplied in every kit should be two brass-colored, two-ended male adapters. One side will fit into the header, and the other will adapt to your EGR tubing!


Q. I was looking for a header system for my 2000 Camaro. I saw that there are systems for the year before and after mine. Is my model not covered?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-4002, BBK-40020, BBK-4003, BBK-40030)
A. Unfortunately, the 2000 Camaro model utilized a proprietary header system, meaning that the headers for that specific year deviated from both the models before it and after it. At this time, BBK does not offer a header system specifically for that model year.


Q. I purchased a BBK header/H-pipe/X-pipe system for my 5.0L mustang. Why won't my collectors line up with the rest of my exhaust piping?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1521, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1512, BBK-15120, BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1525, BBK-15250, BBK-1529 15290, BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690, BBK-1511, BBK-15110, BBK-3510, BBK-35100, BBK-3511, BBK-35110, BBK-1653, BBK-1660, BBK-1671, BBK-1672, BBK-1509, BBK-1510, BBK-1560, BBK-1561)
A. The BBK exhaust pieces are designed around a factory head. In this way, we can ensure that it will fit a factory 5.0L, or any 5.0L with parts that also match factory spec. However, some after market heads DO NOT meet the specs of the factory heads. If the deck height is larger than stock, then it will push the collectors more toward the center, and cause misalignment with the H-pipe or X-pipe. A similar misalignment will occur if you are using a hi-port head, as it will bring the top of the header further up the slope of the head, changing the location of the collector relative to the rest of the car. The problem can seem even more severe when used with Long Tube header systems, as any angle change becomes more noticeable the further away the from the area of rotation. Basically, a small-degree rotation may affect the alignment of a short pipe by less than an inch, but since the collectors on the long tubes are much further removed from the source of the angle change, the difference could be as much as a few inches.


Q. What size is the tubing and flange on BBK's header Systems?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1512, BBK-15120, BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1525, BBK-15250, BBK-1529 15290, BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690, BBK-3520, BBK-35200, BBK-3521, BBK-35210, BBK-1511, BBK-15110, BBK-3510, BBK-35100, BBK-3511, BBK-35110, BBK-3515, BBK-35150, BBK-3516, BBK-35160, BBK-4005, BBK-40050, BBK-4006, BBK-40060, BBK-40000, BBK-40010, BBK-40040, BBK-4002, BBK-40020, BBK-4003, BBK-40030, BBK-1567, BBK-15670, BBK-1568, BBK-15680, BBK-1596, BBK-15960, BBK-15950, BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670)
A. All of BBK's Headers use a thick 3/8-inch precision laser cut flange, and are constructed out of 16 gauge aluminized steel tubing. Also, all of BBK's header systems and exhaust piping is Mandrel bent, which means that the pipe is the same size even throughout the bends, ensuring even flow throughout the entire system.


Q. Does BBK make exhaust and intake products for a Mach 1 Mustang?


A. The Mach 1 Mustang utilizes the same basic engine structure as the older Cobra motors, but with the newer EGR systems. With that in mind, most of BBK's product lineup for the newer Cobra should adapt to the Mach 1 with no modification. BBK Long Tube Headers should work great, as well as BBK Cobra Throttle bodies. The only exception to this is with Cold Air Induction kits. As the Mach 1 uses a hood-mounted Ram-Air-like induction system that differs from the traditional system found on the Cobras, the Cobra CAI's will not match up. And to be honest, The Mach 1's induction system is arguably the best non-forced-induction intake design you can have, with not much improvement that can be offered over stock!


4. Exhaust X & H Pipes

Q. Do the Off Road H-pipes and X pipes have the EGR equipment and O2 sensor bungs like my stock pipes?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670)
A. All of BBK's pipes have the same hookups as the stock exhaust pipes, so that you may simply bolt-up and go.


Q. Does the X-pipe really flow better than the H-pipe?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670)
A. Yes it does! The X configuration greatly increases scavenging in the exhaust system. Instead of pressure being equalized by a smaller, more restrictive straight piece of pipe, the sides come together in a much more effective design. The X section is larger, and the pipes angle directly into it, meaning the airflow does not have to try and jump from one side to the other to equalize pressure; it is a much smoother transition, leading to better flow numbers than its H-pipe brethren.


Q. I currently have a BBK H-pipe on my car. I want to switch to a BBK X -pipe. Will I need to modify anything to make it work?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670)
A. No, that should not be necessary. Both pipes leave BBK ready to bolt in place of the stock exhaust pipes, meaning that they should be interchangeable.


Q. Will the X-pipe work with my Automatic transmission?


A. The standard-length X-pipes have more than enough clearance to accommodate the standard automatic transmission.


Q. After installing a BBK Off Road X-pipe on my vehicle, I experience a tinny resonation from my exhaust system. Is this normal, or is something loose?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670)
A. More than likely there is nothing loose in your exhaust system. Off-road X-pipes have nothing that could really ever come loose inside. Also more than likely is that you are running a Flowmaster cat-back system. You see, Flowmasters make their famous exhaust note using the science of resonation, where sound waves are bounced back-and-forth, and then recombined with other sound waves to change the sound tone, pitch, and volume. We have noticed over the years that Flowmaster muffler systems when teamed up with BBK off road X-pipes, can work together to create an exhaust note that not every enthusiast will appreciate. However, there is nothing wrong with either system. Rather, when both are used together you might experience this phenomenon. BBK recommends a muffler system that is a direct-flow type, similar to a Magnaflow or perhaps a Dynomax, should the Flowmaster system not work for you.


Q. I seem to have clearance issues with my BBK X-pipe/H-pipe. Is the part wrong or is there a better way to do it?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670)
A. BBK recommends that when installing exhaust pipes, you loosely install all the connections first. Then, you will have a little bit of play to "put" the pipe where it fits best, then tighten down the corners equally. You do not want to start at one corner and tighten down fully. This could possibly pull the pipes too tight to one direction, causing fitment problems at other connection ends.


Q. What size are my collectors?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1512, BBK-15120, BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1525, BBK-15250, BBK-1529 15290, BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690, BBK-3520, BBK-35200, BBK-3521, BBK-35210, BBK-1511, BBK-15110, BBK-3510, BBK-35100, BBK-3511, BBK-35110, BBK-3515, BBK-35150, BBK-3516, BBK-35160, BBK-4005, BBK-40050, BBK-4006, BBK-40060, BBK-40000, BBK-40010, BBK-40040, BBK-4002, BBK-40020, BBK-4003, BBK-40030, BBK-1567, BBK-15670, BBK-1568, BBK-15680, BBK-1596, BBK-15960, BBK-15950)
A. With the exception of the primary runners, all of BBK's exhaust piping is 2 ½ inches. So all of BBK collectors as well as H and X-pipes are listed as 2 ½ inches in diameter.


Q. I purchased a BBK X-pipe/H-pipe with High-Flow catalytic converters for my Mustang. Do I need the MIL eliminators?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1618, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1666, BBK-1670)
A. The MIL eliminators are designed to receive a certain voltage from a system without cats and transform it to a voltage that the computer will accept, so as to NOT trip the dummy light in the dash. Since your system has catalytic converters already, the MIL eliminators will not be necessary. Your system should run well within catalytic efficiency parameters.


Q. I was thinking of purchasing a BBK H-pipe/X-pipe. Will I be able to retain the factory exhaust manifolds and muffler system?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670)
A. Yes. The BBK Full-Length Mid-Pipes are designed as a direct bolt-on replacement to the factory H-pipe, so you CAN retain your factory manifolds and mufflers. This can be an important thing for many enthusiasts with new cars under warranty, as some dealerships will not warranty a new vehicle if the factory manifolds have been removed. Since BBK's pipes will allow you to keep them in place, you can get greater horsepower while possibly still staying in bounds of your warranty guidelines. And of course, we remind you that it is your responsibility to follow the manufacturers warranty guidelines!


Q. I purchased a BBK header/H-pipe/X-pipe system for my 5.0L mustang. Why won't my collectors line up with the rest of my exhaust piping?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1521, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1512, BBK-15120, BBK-1515, BBK-15150, BBK-1525, BBK-15250, BBK-1529 15290, BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1569, BBK-15690, BBK-1511, BBK-15110, BBK-3510, BBK-35100, BBK-3511, BBK-35110, BBK-1653, BBK-1660, BBK-1671, BBK-1672, BBK-1509, BBK-1510, BBK-1560, BBK-1561)
A. The BBK exhaust pieces are designed around a factory head. In this way, we can ensure that it will fit a factory 5.0L, or any 5.0L with parts that also match factory spec. However, some after market heads DO NOT meet the specs of the factory heads. If the deck height is larger than stock, then it will push the collectors more toward the center, and cause misalignment with the H-pipe or X-pipe. A similar misalignment will occur if you are using a hi-port head, as it will bring the top of the header further up the slope of the head, changing the location of the collector relative to the rest of the car. The problem can seem even more severe when used with Long Tube header systems, as any angle change becomes more noticeable the further away the from the area of rotation. Basically, a small-degree rotation may affect the alignment of a short pipe by less than an inch, but since the collectors on the long tubes are much further removed from the source of the angle change, the difference could be as much as a few inches.


Q. I am eliminating my catalytic converters from my exhaust system. Do I really NEED the MIL eliminators, or can I get by with out them?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1616, BBK-1661, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1669)
A. Truth be told, you can run without them with no real side effects. The rear O2 sensors are merely an emissions check; they trigger the light if the catalytic converter system should fail, or if the system is bypassed completely (like you are doing). It acts as a flag to notify you and the smog technicians of the fact that there is a 'deficiency' in the emissions system. It should in no way alter the performance and drive-ability of your car. With that said, however, there is good reason that the after market - and BBK - offers ways to eliminate that Malfunctioning Indicator Light (MIL). Since that is the only interface that your vehicle has to notify you of immediate or impending trouble, if your light is tied up displaying that your cats are missing (something you are aware of), then it really has no way to let you know of any other problems that the system could be experiencing. This has led to a couple different solutions to this dilemma. Some companies offer ways to tamper with the stock ECU (Engine Control Unit) and "turn off" those rear O2 sensors. Here at BBK, we prefer not tampering with the stock computer systems, and feel that our solution is much more prudent, as it doesn't directly tamper with the ECU, which will void just about any warranty. BBK's MIL eliminators are designed to plug in-line with your stock O2 sensors and wiring harness, and mask the fact that your catalytic system is missing, thus providing the right voltage code to keep the ECU from turning the light on. This will keep the dash looking cleaner and healthier, and help you keep alerted to REAL problems that could affect your vehicles performance.


Q. Does BBK make exhaust and intake products for a Mach 1 Mustang?


A. The Mach 1 Mustang utilizes the same basic engine structure as the older Cobra motors, but with the newer EGR systems. With that in mind, most of BBK's product lineup for the newer Cobra should adapt to the Mach 1 with no modification. BBK Long Tube Headers should work great, as well as BBK Cobra Throttle bodies. The only exception to this is with Cold Air Induction kits. As the Mach 1 uses a hood-mounted Ram-Air-like induction system that differs from the traditional system found on the Cobras, the Cobra CAI's will not match up. And to be honest, The Mach 1's induction system is arguably the best non-forced-induction intake design you can have, with not much improvement that can be offered over stock!


5. Gripp Suspension Products

Q. Will the BBK Strut Tower Brace clear my intake manifold?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-2504, BBK-25040, BBK-2513, BBK-25130, BBK-2516, BBK-15160)
A. The BBK piece was designed around the basic shape and dimensions of the stock intake manifold. Designs that deviate too much from this basic outline might not fit well with the brace. However, it is difficult to determine all the myriad of possible combinations that will and will not work with the braces. There are many variables to consider: Do you have after market engine mounts with an offset? Do you have an oversized after market intake? Is there an after market K-member with an engine offset? Any phenolic spacers? With just these few examples, you can see how it can be almost impossible to say what will and won't work, and under what conditions.


Q. I want to get a BBK Cold Air Intake and a BBK Strut tower brace. Will the brace clear the CAI?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-2504, BBK-25040, BBK-2513, BBK-25130, BBK-2516, BBK-15160, BBK-1556, BBK-1557, BBK-1712, BBK-1713, BBK-17130, BBK-1717, BBK-1718, BBK-1719, BBK-1725)
A. The BBK strut tower design did take into consideration the routing of our Cold Air kit, so you should have no troubles with the two on your engine.


Q. Will the BBK Strut Tower Braces work with the Cobra Models?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-2504, BBK-25040, BBK-2513, BBK-25130, BBK-2516, BBK-15160)
A. Though similar the GT models, the intakes on the Cobra are different enough that BBK's strut tower braces will not fit on them. However on some Cobra models, braces are factory supplied, meaning there would be no need for a BBK strut tower brace.


6. Fuel System Components

Q. My BBK-1617 Fuel Gauge isn't fitting on my BBK Fuel regulator on my Mustang; it hits the intake. How is this supposed to fit on the car?


A. The gauge kit comes with an adapter to allow you to attach it to the Schrader valve, which is located on the fuel rail at the front of the motor on the Passenger Side. This is the port that you use to relieve fuel pressure from your system, and will work equally well to take a pressure reading. Here, you will have better viewing capabilities than on the regulator itself. The port on the top of the regulator is mainly for those customers wishing to run a remote line to the cab for mounting purposes there.


Q. I put a supercharger on my Mustang, but when I hooked it up to the fuel regulator, the pressure stayed the same. Did I do something wrong?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1706, BBK-1707, BBK-1617)
A. The BBK Fuel pressure regulator is not a Boost Referencing model, meaning that forced induction systems will require the use of an FMU (Fuel Management Unit), usually supplied with the supercharger kit.


Q. I think my BBK-1714 GM Fuel regulator kit is missing parts. Aren't I supposed to get a diaphragm?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1714)
A. This BBK kit utilizes the same diaphragm that is on your car. Simply remove the non-adjustable lid per the supplied instructions, and reinstall the BBK adjustable piece. This will offer the same reliable seal as the factory unit, while allowing full adjustability of your fuel pressure.


Q. Why didn't my fuel pump have any hoses, wires, or harnesses like the one in the advertisement?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1526, BBK-1527, BBK-1606, BBK-1607, BBK-1621, BBK-1622, BBK-1625, BBK-1626, BBK-1627, BBK-1630)
A. Only a few of BBK pump offerings come with any wiring harnesses or hoses, as they won't adapt directly without them. Most will be able to retain the factory harness, and should be fine for use as you received it.


Q. Will BBK's in-line fuel pump BBK-1602 work as my primary pump?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1602)
A. The in-line pump from BBK was designed as a puller pump, to be used in-line with an in-tank pump to give greater potential to the overall system. It was not designed to be used as a primary pump.


Q. Will the in-line fuel pump BBK-1602 work for my custom application?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1602)
A. The BBK-1602 in-line pump was designed as an additional puller pump. The pump should allow just about anyone looking to add a puller pump to their arsenal the ability to increase fuel pressure safely and effectively. However, the fittings that are supplied with the kit are specifically for a Ford application. This means that if you plan on running the pump on another application, you will most likely need to adapt those fittings for your particular use or locate some that will work as replacements for the supplied ones.


Q. I installed a BBK Fuel regulator on my vehicle. Now my car will not hold pressure as long when the vehicle is turned off. Should I send it back?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1617, BBK-1706, BBK-1707, BBK-1714, BBK-1526, BBK-1527, BBK-1606, BBK-1607, BBK-1621, BBK-1622, BBK-1625, BBK-1626, BBK-1627, BBK-1630)
A. So long as your pressure remains relatively constant while running (which it should), you shouldn't have to worry about that leak-down when the car is not running. In fact, we believe that a little bit of leak-down is healthier for the system, as it will relieve the pressure in the fuel system when not in use, which could possibly help extend the life of your equipment. The only real downside to the leak-down is that your pump might have to gear up a half-second longer when you first turn your car on; but then again, even the stock regulator has a slow leak-down rate, which eventually will lower the pressure to the same levels, so depending on how long your car sits in between starts, it could even be a moot point!


Q. Why won't BBK fuel pumps and fuel regulators work on a 1998 and up Mustang?


A. In the 1998 model year, Ford switched their fuel system to a return-less system. The model years previous to this used a physical regulator and a constant-velocity fuel pump to regulate the pressure throughout the system. The old-style system constantly supplies a fairly standard pressure (depending on load), the regulator only allows a certain amount of that pressure into the fuel system, and the excess fuel and pressure is bled back to the fuel tank. On the newer design, the fuel pump is a completely different design that works with varying pulses of voltage, and the computer monitors and controls the fuel pressure. Basically, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) controls the fuel pressure by telling the pump to speed up when the engine is under load, and tells it to slow down when you are just cruising, constantly varying the pump speed to control pressure in the system. While the newer style pumps can be adapted to be used in older applications, the older-style pumps and systems will not adapt to the newer-style ones.


Q. I purchased a BBK adjustable Fuel regulator part # BBK-1706/BBK-1707. Now I can't adjust below about 35 psi. Am I doing something wrong?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1526, BBK-1527, BBK-1606, BBK-1607, BBK-1621, BBK-1622, BBK-1625, BBK-1626, BBK-1627, BBK-1630)
A. The BBK regulator is not designed to regulate pressure below the stock setting of about 38 psi. it should allow plenty of adjustability from stock settings and up, to allow high-horsepower engines that need the extra pressure over stock in order to achieve more fuel flow at high RPM's.


7. Throttle Bodies

Q. Why is my Throttle body sticking closed near Idle?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1501, BBK-1503, BBK-1514, BBK-1517, BBK-3501, BBK-3502, BBK-3503, BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544, BBK-1522, BBK-1523, BBK-1524, BBK-1715, BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703,1580, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755, BBK-1708, BBK-1709, BBK-1710, BBK-1721, BBK-1756, BBK-1757, BBK-1546, BBK-1547, BBK-1752, BBK-1753, BBK-1751, BBK-1754, BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652, BBK-1723, BBK-1716)
A. This condition is sometimes known as "vacuum lock." There is an extreme amount of vacuum pressure on the backside of the plate, and a large pressure difference from that of the front side. When this happens, the throttle blade tends to want to stay in the closed position, due in large part to the intense vacuum pressure created by the engine. Simply using the Idle set screw (gold colored screw which the linkage rests against) to prop open the blade a tiny bit more will usually solve the problem by allowing more air to pass through the opening, thus better equalizing the pressure and alleviating the "lock." Remember to do small increments at a time, maybe 1/4- to 1/2-turn each attempt.


Q. Why does my throttle body whistle? What can I do?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1501, BBK-1503, BBK-1514, BBK-1517, BBK-3501, BBK-3502, BBK-3503, BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544, BBK-1522, BBK-1523, BBK-1524, BBK-1715, BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703,1580, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755, BBK-1708, BBK-1709, BBK-1710, BBK-1721, BBK-1756, BBK-1757, BBK-1546, BBK-1547, BBK-1752, BBK-1753, BBK-1751, BBK-1754, BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652, BBK-1723, BBK-1716)
A. Turbulence in the airflow stream can create a whistle. This can be created by sharp edges in the air intake system, most notably when a larger throttle body is used on a stock intake that has not been 'Port Matched.' The air along the outer edges of the air intake system and throttle body hits the "wall" of the smaller intake manifold, creating turbulence that can cause a noticeable whistle. Other trouble areas can be the small vacuum ports and the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve port which may empty into the main bore of the throttle body. If these edges are square enough at the entry point of the bore, it can create turbulence, and the air will whistle passed it (similar to blowing over the top of an empty cola bottle just right to get it to whistle).
BBK offers a 1 year manufacturers warranty against any defects in materials or workmanship. If you feel that the ports of your throttle body are creating a whistle, you can request an RGA number (Returned Goods Authorization number) and return it to us, at which time we will inspect your piece, and further hone as you may feel it to necessary. Alternatively, if you would rather keep possession of your throttle body, and you feel you are adept enough with simple hand tools, you may want to try and hone the ports yourself with fine grit sandpaper. Some customers are adept enough with a small drill or Dremel-type tool to lightly sand the edges down. Be aware though, that any irreparable damages done to the product on the customers behalf cannot be warranted by BBK. If you feel that you are not capable of the task or do not want to risk possible damage, BBK strongly urges you to send the part in under warranty. Be aware though, that further honing the throttle body will not cure any whistling issues if the problem actually lies elsewhere in the system, and if the added airflow of a larger-bore throttle body is only making the problem perceptible.


Q. My throttle body has connections for cables on it that I don't seem to have on my throttle body. Is this the wrong one?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1501, BBK-1503, BBK-1514, BBK-1517, BBK-3501, BBK-3502, BBK-3503, BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544, BBK-1522, BBK-1523, BBK-1524, BBK-1715, BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703,1580, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755, BBK-1708, BBK-1709, BBK-1710, BBK-1721, BBK-1756, BBK-1757, BBK-1546, BBK-1547, BBK-1752, BBK-1753, BBK-1751, BBK-1754, BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652, BBK-1723, BBK-1716)
A. Not necessarily. Many times, BBK throttle body designs will encompass many different models, some of which use slightly different connections than other models. This is especially true of Automatic cars versus Manuals. If you find that you have arms and cable connections that you simply have no use for, you may safely ignore them!


Q. My throttle body seems to have vacuum ports that I don't have connections for. Did I get the wrong one?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1501, BBK-1503, BBK-1514, BBK-1517, BBK-3501, BBK-3502, BBK-3503, BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544, BBK-1522, BBK-1523, BBK-1524, BBK-1715, BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703,1580, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755, BBK-1708, BBK-1709, BBK-1710, BBK-1721, BBK-1756, BBK-1757, BBK-1546, BBK-1547, BBK-1752, BBK-1753, BBK-1751, BBK-1754, BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652, BBK-1723, BBK-1716)
A. Not necessarily. BBK engineers discovered that some of the basic design characteristics of our throttle bodies carry over to a large number of models. In order to offer as many enthusiasts as possible a choice for performance throttle bodies, we have gone the extra mile to add certain connections to them that are required for some applications, though perhaps not yours. If this is the case, you must cap off the remaining vacuum ports, so as to avoid possible vacuum leaks that could be detrimental to your performance.


Q. Why does my pedal seem different after installing my BBK Throttle Body?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755)
A. Some of the throttle bodies work for many different models. On some of those models, you may experience a situation where the pedal seems to sit lower. Have no fear; the throttle body is operating to its full capacity. You can verify this by having someone push down on the throttle and then check to see that the throttle butterfly is at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). So long as you can achieve the full range of butterfly movement from idle to WOT, there should be no problems.


Q. Why doesn't my BBK throttle body have holes in the butterfly like my stock one?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1501, BBK-1503, BBK-1514, BBK-1517, BBK-3501, BBK-3502, BBK-3503, BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544, BBK-1522, BBK-1523, BBK-1524, BBK-1715, BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703,1580, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755, BBK-1708, BBK-1709, BBK-1710, BBK-1721, BBK-1756, BBK-1757, BBK-1546, BBK-1547, BBK-1752, BBK-1753, BBK-1751, BBK-1754, BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652, BBK-1723, BBK-1716)
A. The holes in a stock throttle body are there to help fight a situation known as "vacuum lock." When the blades are closed almost fully, and very little air is allowed to creep through, you wind up with a large difference in pressure between the front side, where it is about the same pressure as the atmosphere, and the backside, where the motor is creating a large vacuum against the butterfly. This tends to lock the blade into place. Since the stock throttle body is so much smaller than BBK's, it is much more of a dilemma, requiring holes in the butterfly to allow more air to flow passed, equalizing pressure. Since the BBK throttle body is a bit larger, it tends to flow more air passed its opening, thereby avoiding the need for the holes.


Q. I bought a twin-bore BBK throttle body for my Ford Vehicle. Do I need the plug in the back side of it?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755)
A. Maybe... If you are putting it on a truck, then the answer is most likely yes. However - if ever in doubt, always check and compare against your stock set up. BBK throttle bodies are designed to replace the OEM units and utilize all of the same components and functions. If your stock system utilizes that particular port, then it is recommended that you not block it off, as it could adversely affect your performance and idle quality.


Q. The coolant lines on my BBK throttle body do not match that of my stock one. Is this the right one?


A. Most likely it is the correct part. BK engineers discovered that the basic design of their throttle bodies will work for a large number of models. In order to offer a choice in after market performance throttle bodies to as many enthusiasts as we can, the coolant lines were put where we thought it made the most sense; right in the middle! Thus, if you find that the coolant lines do not point where you would like them to, you may want to consider LIGHTLY bending them to the direction you desire. The metal is pretty soft, so it it should bend in the direction you point without problem. The best way to attempt it is to take a small diameter deep-well socket (not much bigger than the tube) and place it over the line to be bent. But be careful! BBK cannot warranty irreparable damage incurred by the user. As an easier and more performance-beneficial workaround, you can just bypass the coolant lines. BBK recommends this fix as it will keep the hot coolant away from your intake system, helping keep your air intake stream cooler, thus increasing performance.


Q. My throttle body on my V6 Mustang won't seem to work properly. What is wrong?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652)
A. More than likely nothing is wrong with the piece. The stock design is very exacting, working with very tight tolerances in consideration of the stock throttle body. However, since the throttle body places the blade so close to the intake manifold, when going to a larger throttle body, you must port the intake in order to allow for clearance of the new, larger blade on the BBK unit.
You can either port just the edges where the throttle blade catches, or BBK recommends that you port the entire surface to match, as this will allow you to achieve maximum flow and power potential from your new piece.


Q. I have a BBK throttle body on a TPI motor. I was thinking of Putting it on my new LT-1 motor. They look awfully similar. Will that be possible?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544)
A. Though the TPI and LT-1 throttle bodies do have a similar basic body structure, the linkage systems and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) are different and incompatible.


Q. Why does my car shift differently after I installed my BBK Throttle Body?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1501, BBK-1503, BBK-1514, BBK-1517, BBK-3501, BBK-3502, BBK-3503, BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544, BBK-1522, BBK-1523, BBK-1524, BBK-1715, BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703,1580, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755, BBK-1708, BBK-1709, BBK-1710, BBK-1721, BBK-1756, BBK-1757, BBK-1546, BBK-1547, BBK-1752, BBK-1753, BBK-1751, BBK-1754, BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652, BBK-1723, BBK-1716)
A. On Today's modern computerized cars, there are usually a few components that are at least partly responsible for the operation of an automatic transmission. On some models, the computer controls the shift points by comparing the Mass Air voltage versus the TPS voltage, and makes the determination for gear choice. Some also monitor the manifold pressure and utilize the readings found there to make the correct gearing choice. Some use both! If you have an automatic-equipped car and are suffering from some shift-point-blues, there are some things that you can do.
One quick and easy way that sometimes proves fruitful is to modify the TPS voltage. If you bring the TPS voltage up a little bit, it will more closely fall in-line with what the computer expects to see as far as voltage readings between it and the Mass Air meter. You must do this in small increments, though: If the TPS is adjusted too high, it can create its own set of problems, like an erratic idle or slightly declined performance. Another thing you might want to try is to put some smaller vacuum tubing on your manifold/Throttle Body. After installing a Larger-bore throttle body, you can expect manifold vacuum pressure to drop a bit. This is due to the fact that you now have a larger opening to the outside atmosphere, and more flow. This option may prove to be a more tedious process than it is worth, however. Another option you might want to consider is the purchase of a "Tuner Chip" or programmer. Most after market computer chips come equipped with various ways to adjust certain settings on your car. Not only will they usually help the tune of your engine, but many will allow you to access the shift point settings, and modify the shifts to what you want them to be, and Where you want them to be. Some applications will really benefit from this add-on, even if only used for its transmission tuning capabilities.
You must be aware, though, that your car's ECU (Engine Control Unit) needs to be fully calibrated for your throttle body prior to installation of any computer chips. Some chips work by modifying the stock program for better performance - and if the stock program has not yet compensated for the after market throttle body, then your added programming configuration will not function properly on your car. You could find that your idle quality and performance will not be up to par, and you may in fact run into some issues.


Q. My BBK-1751 Focus Throttle Body seems to be missing a hookup for my Kick down cable. What should I do?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1751)
A. Unfortunately, at this time BBK does not support the automatic transmission-equipped Focus. If you have a Focus with an automatic, you should return the part to us for a refund.


Q. I have a BBK throttle body on a TPI motor. I was thinking of Putting it on my new LT-1 motor. They look awfully similar. Will that be possible?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544)
A. Though the TPI and LT-1 throttle bodies do have a similar basic body structure, the linkage systems and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) are different and incompatible.


Q. Why does my car shift differently after I installed my BBK Throttle Body?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1501, BBK-1503, BBK-1514, BBK-1517, BBK-3501, BBK-3502, BBK-3503, BBK-1534, BBK-1536, BBK-1537, BBK-1539, BBK-1540, BBK-1542, BBK-1543, BBK-1544, BBK-1522, BBK-1523, BBK-1524, BBK-1715, BBK-1700, BBK-1701, BBK-1703,1580, BBK-1705, BBK-1711, BBK-17110, BBK-1755, BBK-1708, BBK-1709, BBK-1710, BBK-1721, BBK-1756, BBK-1757, BBK-1546, BBK-1547, BBK-1752, BBK-1753, BBK-1751, BBK-1754, BBK-1548, BBK-1552, BBK-1652, BBK-1723, BBK-1716)
A. On Today's modern computerized cars, there are usually a few components that are at least partly responsible for the operation of an automatic transmission. On some models, the computer controls the shift points by comparing the Mass Air voltage versus the TPS voltage, and makes the determination for gear choice. Some also monitor the manifold pressure and utilize the readings found there to make the correct gearing choice. Some use both! If you have an automatic-equipped car and are suffering from some shift-point-blues, there are some things that you can do.
One quick and easy way that sometimes proves fruitful is to modify the TPS voltage. If you bring the TPS voltage up a little bit, it will more closely fall in-line with what the computer expects to see as far as voltage readings between it and the Mass Air meter. You must do this in small increments, though: If the TPS is adjusted too high, it can create its own set of problems, like an erratic idle or slightly declined performance. Another thing you might want to try is to put some smaller vacuum tubing on your manifold/Throttle Body. After installing a Larger-bore throttle body, you can expect manifold vacuum pressure to drop a bit. This is due to the fact that you now have a larger opening to the outside atmosphere, and more flow. This option may prove to be a more tedious process than it is worth, however. Another option you might want to consider is the purchase of a "Tuner Chip" or programmer. Most after market computer chips come equipped with various ways to adjust certain settings on your car. Not only will they usually help the tune of your engine, but many will allow you to access the shift point settings, and modify the shifts to what you want them to be, and Where you want them to be. Some applications will really benefit from this add-on, even if only used for its transmission tuning capabilities.
You must be aware, though, that your car's ECU (Engine Control Unit) needs to be fully calibrated for your throttle body prior to installation of any computer chips. Some chips work by modifying the stock program for better performance - and if the stock program has not yet compensated for the after market throttle body, then your added programming configuration will not function properly on your car. You could find that your idle quality and performance will not be up to par, and you may in fact run into some issues.


8. Performance Pulley Kits

Q. In my BBK-1555/BBK-1559 Underdrive Pulley set, the water pump seems to be completely wrong. What happened, and what should I do?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1555, BBK-1559)
A. During the 2000 model year, Ford made a switch to a shorter water pump shaft, which required a new pulley. However, the old style pumps and pulleys were still used at some factory locations through 2001. So, you may have the wrong water pump in your possession. To be sure, compare against your stock pulley. They should look similar in appearance (either bowl-shaped or flat-faced). If your pulley is wrong, you will need to exchange it.


Q. I bought a BBK-15550 kit for my truck. But, my truck doesn't have an 8-rib belt. Do you offer a kit for the 6-rib trucks?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1555, BBK-15550)
A. If your truck has only a 6-rib belt, you should still be able to use the BBK-15550 kit successfully. Use of the kit will only mean that you will have two unused rungs on those pulleys, and should not affect your performance or longevity any. But, if you would like to try a kit that is a 6-rib set up, you should be able to run the part BBK-1555 that is for the Mustangs, which the BBK-15550 is based of off.


Q. What size belt will I need after I install my Underdrive pulley kit?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1513, BBK-1528, BBK-1553, BBK-1554, BBK-1555, BBK-15550, BBK-1559, BBK-1591, BBK-1598, BBK-1603, BBK-1619, BBK-1620)
A. Most all of BBK kits will be able to retain the stock belt size. The only kits that will need a new belt size will say so in the instructions, and have the part number for the new belt listed as well. Rule of thumb: If your instructions don't mention the need for a new belt, you should just re-use your factory-sized belt. However, if you still experience a condition which you feel a shorter or longer belt would alleviate, simply contact your local auto parts store and verify the factory-standard belt size. The belt size should be a part of the part number it self. For instance, if the part number ends with 88 or 885, it is more than likely an 88 or 88- 1/2 inch belt. So you can simply use the same style belt that is an inch-or-so shorter or longer in overall length.


Q. My Underdrive Pulley kit causes clearance issues with a tube in front of my crank pulley. Is it not compatible with my vehicle?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1555, BBK-1559)
A. A rare few vehicles have a tube that runs closely along the front of the stock crank assembly. In order to use after market Underdrive pulley kits, you must gently bend the tube for clearance. As long as you go slow and use caution, you should be able to safely create more than enough clearance than is necessary for the Underdrive pulley system.


Q. Will the Underdrive Pulley system harm my oil pump?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1513, BBK-1528, BBK-1553, BBK-1554, BBK-1555, BBK-15550, BBK-1559, BBK-1591, BBK-1598, BBK-1603, BBK-1619, BBK-1620)
A. The Underdrive pulley kits do not affect the function nor the rotating speed of the oiling system, as it is directly in line with the crank itself. This means that no matter what size pulley you put on the front of the crank hub, the oiling system will function the same.


Q. What do Underdrive Pulleys do to produce additional power?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1513, BBK-1528, BBK-1553, BBK-1554, BBK-1555, BBK-15550, BBK-1559, BBK-1591, BBK-1598, BBK-1603, BBK-1619, BBK-1620)
A. Underdrive pulleys are not really "creating" any additional power. Rather, they are freeing up losses in your system due to parasitic drag. You see, everything that your belt runs around and turns takes away horsepower; it takes a certain amount of power and force to spin those accessories at any given speed. The faster they need to go, the more power it will take! It works off of the same principle as an old 10-speed bicycle. To make it easier to turn the pedals, you changed the size of the gears doing the work in the front and rear. Well, the same thing applies here. If you make the Crank Pulley smaller, then with every revolution it makes, it is turning the belt less. If you oversize the accessory pulleys, then with each pull of the belt, they are turning less. All those fewer rotations of the accessories equals more power the engine can direct toward your rear wheels!


9. Valve Covers & Accessories

Q. I am having a hard time installing my valve covers on my 4.6L Mustang. What is the best way to do this install?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1513, BBK-1528, BBK-1553, BBK-1554, BBK-1555, BBK-15550, BBK-1559, BBK-1591, BBK-1598, BBK-1603, BBK-1619, BBK-1620)
A. Many customers have had luck with removing the master cylinder on the Driver's Side in order to free up some clearance and make the job easier. Also be sure to remove the Clutch cable mounts from the firewall per the instructions, so you can move it out of the way. And, it is recommended that you put some RTV Hi-temp sealant or equivalent on the gasket side that faces the head, and allow to cure to the block. This will help your seal, as well as keep the gasket in place while placing the valve cover onto it. Another thing to keep in mind is that the small metal rings that are supplied with the covers are NOT washers; they are compression stops that are to be placed in the holes in the gasket before placing the valve covers on. Their presence will keep the valve cover from over tightening and pushing the gasket out, possibly causing leaks.


Q. What applications will require a BBK-1676 O2 extension harness kit?


(part numbers affected include: BBK-1507, BBK-1562, BBK-1565, BBK-1566, BBK-1521, BBK-1563, BBK-1616, BBK-1618, BBK-1661, BBK-1662, BBK-1663, BBK-1664, BBK-1665, BBK-1666, BBK-1669, BBK-1670, BBK-1532, BBK-15320, BBK-1533, BBK-15330, BBK-1541, BBK-15410, BBK-1516, BBK-15160, BBK-1519, BBK-15190, BBK-1594, BBK-15940, BBK-1635, BBK-1638, BBK-1659, BBK-1660, BBK-1671, BBK-1672, BBK-1509, BBK-1510, BBK-1535, BBK-1538, BBK-1560, BBK-1561, BBK-1676)
A. Typically, you should only require a single BBK-1676 extension kit for the front sensors if you are installing a long tube header system. Some 2004 models will also require a harness for the rear O2 sensors as well. All other piping systems and model years should place the O2 sensor very close to the stock location, so that you will not need an extension.